Etec 130 or 150 for 20 ft Master angler

[Bushwacker]

Most modern electronics do not like voltage surges, so it's cheap insurance to make sure the connections can't come loose. I think it's also possible to blow the ECU and/or the alternator diodes in most cars if you connect jumper cables backwards! We tried to do a lot of Murphy-proofing in the aerospace business, but there is a practical limit to that because there are so many ingenious idiots in this world!

[FishStretcher]

Well, in the automotive world, resistance to a load dump like battery disconnect has been around for a while.

Wikipedia can cover it a little, or you can read up on the ISO standard.

www.radiocad.com/_downloads/LoadDumpPaper-final.pdf

I am not saying its good to disconnect the battery, but a loose wire is a common enough event to have several specifications for resisting damage to them.

[Bushwacker]

I don't know what standards the outboard makers design to, but that would be a good question to ask the factory engineers if you can find any at a boat show! My only point was that use of nylock nuts instead of wingnuts on the battery terminals is good practice, and I would do that regardless of what brand of motor was on the boat.

[gofastsandman]

Originally Posted by Bushwacker

Murphy-proofing in the aerospace business, but there is a practical limit to that because there are so many ingenious idiots in this world!

500 ft. off the deck and smoke is pouring out of the defrosters.

Ummm, ah, Drew, you do know we can`t make it back if we lose power.

Shut up I`m pilot in command!

Ohhhhh k. Note to self. Hey, do you mind if I shut off the defroster?

Why? ohh k.

This is the short story. Don`t buzz cattle after this please. Very uncomfortable.

Altitude is your friend,
GFS

[Snookerd]

Originally Posted by FishStretcher

battery disconnect has been around for a while.

Wikipedia can cover it a little, or you can read up on the ISO standard.

www.radiocad.com/_downloads/LoadDumpPaper-final.pdf

Not every day do we see a forum member advising Bushwacker to read Wikipedia on electronics and engineering, thanks FishStretcher.

[Bushwacker]

Hey Danny,

As I've always said, I'm just a Mechanical engineer. I only know enough about electronics and electrical stuff to be dangerous! Denny

[Flatbroke]

I've been reading this forum for several years and just got a user ID so I can ask questions and comment.

I bought a 1970 20' Seafari I/O about a year ago. I have been struggling with the idea of converting it to a center console. I have also wrestled with leaving it as an I/O and giving up all of the floor space associated with the I/O box or converting it to a bracketed outboard. Between the 4-strokes, Optimax and E-tec I couldn't get beyond the weight issue.

I have a good friend who is on the Evinrude Pro staff. He offered me his 6 month old 115 HO (127 hp) at basically his cost - aka about 1/2 price. I really wanted more power so I went and discussed my predicament with my local Evinrude Master mechanic who is highly respected in Brevard County.

He told me that the 115 and 130 have an exhaust valve in the lower unit that helps them make that hp in the smaller package. He indicated that it was, or had the potential to be, problematic. His comment was "If there is any way you can take the weight of the 150 go with it. You won't regret it."

I hadn't seen that discussed in this thread so i just wanted to share what I had been told.

[Bushwacker]

Originally Posted by Flatbroke

. . .
I bought a 1970 20' Seafari I/O about a year ago. I have been struggling with the idea of converting it to a center console. I have also wrestled with leaving it as an I/O and giving up all of the floor space associated with the I/O box or converting it to a bracketed outboard. Between the 4-strokes, Optimax and E-tec I couldn't get beyond the weight issue.

I have a good friend who is on the Evinrude Pro staff. He offered me his 6 month old 115 HO (127 hp) at basically his cost - aka about 1/2 price. I really wanted more power so I went and discussed my predicament with my local Evinrude Master mechanic who is highly respected in Brevard County.

He told me that the 115 and 130 have an exhaust valve in the lower unit that helps them make that hp in the smaller package. He indicated that it was, or had the potential to be, problematic. His comment was "If there is any way you can take the weight of the 150 go with it. You won't regret it."

I hadn't seen that discussed in this thread so i just wanted to share what I had been told.

1. If you really want a CC, then sell the Seafari and buy a CC, don't butcher the Seafari. It's a relatively rare and unique model and you'll spend a LOT more time and money trying to make a CC out of it than you would to just buy a CC in the first place!

2. I think the E-Tec's are a great choice for the 20' hull because power/weight is better than any 4-stroke, with similar noise level, fuel burn and reliability, but less maintenance.

3. As for the V-4 vs. V-6 decision, you'll have to decide how you'll use the boat, how fast you want to run, and how much load you plan to carry. I ran my boat for over 30 years with an old "115" (90 hp at the prop V-4), including a half dozen heavily loaded runs to the Abaco's, and it rode great with that light 300 lb motor, with zero durability problems even though I cruised all day long at 4500 rpm at about 20 kts. As I think I mentioned in an earlier post on this thread, if you spend much time offshore, you won't be able to use all the power/speed the V-6 generates. Although I love the V-6 and it's perfect for the heavy loads I seem to run with on long cruises, if you just use it for offshore fishing with a couple of guys, don't carry a bunch of divers w/tanks, and can live with a top speed of about 40 mph, I'd seriously consider the V-4 due to much less initial cost, lower fuel burn and greater range. The SeaCraft hull is much more efficient than any other boat, so they don't NEED all the power you see folks putting on comparable size new boats!

4. As far as problems with the 2-position exhaust valve, I don't think it's an issue if you run the XD-100 full synthetic oil that allows you to set the ECM for less oil usage. I'd ask your Pro buddy what oil he ran in that motor if you decide to buy it. Check out this link http://www.etecownersgroup.com/post/...-Valve-5640256 for more info on that issue. Most guys that had problems with a sticking valve were just using TCW-3 oil, not even the XD-50 synthetic blend stuff. The XD-100 burns so much cleaner and you use less of it, so I don't see the point of spending all the $ for a modern high-tech motor and then trying to save a few bucks on cheap oil. I typically use 1 gallon to 100-150 gallons of gas, so even at $35/gallon, when you figure the overall expense of maintaining and running a boat, the cost of running the best oil is a nit, especially with gas at $5/gal!

[McGillicuddy]

Flatbroke, If you choose not to go with that 115 HO can you hook me up? That is a good deal and a great fit for the Seafari.

I concur with Bushwacker - the Seafari 20 is unique in that you will have a nimble boat with wide open speed and with guts to ride the storm out. I often wish mine was an i/o as we often get big swells on our rear going home and the closed transom is nice. I understand the need for a soccer field to fish from but cutting the Seafari is probably not the most cost effective move. I fish from atop the motor cover in i/o's all the time.

I sense you're in FL but the cuddy sure is a nice one for such a little boat. Especially if camping or getting caught in weather, or if someone is exhausted or hurt. You might try removing the windshield and seeing if you like that combo and then making you decision. I think guys on the board have done that with both the seafari and the original 21 with good looking and functional results. Good luck with your decision and welcome aboard