Teak finish ?

floorboy · #1 06-12-2012, 09:58 AM

Epifanes.

Bushwacker · #2 06-12-2012, 11:48 AM

Meant to include a comment in earlier post about the 2-part teak cleaners, which I would NOT recommend using! Although they do a pretty good job of cleaning very dark and oxidized oiled teak with a very caustic alkali solution that's followed by a neutralizing acid, they are very harsh and will destroy the soft part of the grain. My experience is that the hard part of the grain will remain, so you'll end up with a very uneven surface that you'll either have to run thru a planer or sand very heavily with something like 60 grit to get smooth again. Unless the wood is very dirty and in very bad shape, your best bet is just to sand it with 60 grit. (Teak is so oily and tough that I seem to get better results with coarser grits and saw blades than you would normally use on something like mahogany.)

jorgeinmiami · #3 06-12-2012, 03:11 PM

I love the look of teak and I would love to put it on my boat but in seeing this thread it brought back memeories of my 26 Oceanic that had teak.
In order to get the teak looking it's best i would have to every year take all the teak of my boat spend a couple of days with the sander and then a another 2-3 days with the brush.
What a pain in the A@@ it was ...But once done it looked great.

I'm thinking of going in another direction this time but the look of just done teak is hard to beat

sidelock · #4 06-12-2012, 06:09 PM

Picked up a can of Epifanes woodfinish gloss . I like the siplicity of being able to use it right out of the can & not having to mix a two part solution & the fact that no sanding is required between coats. Having said that , when I got I did notice that the directions on the can do state that the first coat should be thinned 25% & additional coats 5%. How crucial is thinning it out ? I've got the doors sanded down to bare wood.

Bushwacker · #5 06-13-2012, 08:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sidelock

Picked up a can of Epifanes woodfinish gloss . I like the siplicity of being able to use it right out of the can & not having to mix a two part solution & the fact that no sanding is required between coats. Having said that , when I got I did notice that the directions on the can do state that the first coat should be thinned 25% & additional coats 5%. How crucial is thinning it out ? I've got the doors sanded down to bare wood.

I followed those directions to the letter and have had good results so I'd recommend you do the same. I did wet sand between coats, I think with 220 grit.

uncleboo · #6 06-13-2012, 10:07 AM

I agree with Denny on the epifanes. I, too , followed the directions to the tee last year and got fantastic results. All my teak still looks like it did when I finished it. remember that this teak is 36 years old.

uncleboo · #7 06-13-2012, 10:12 AM

I need to clarify that the rod holders on the side of the console, less the spacer, and the rear hatches are the original teak. The other stuff is new brazilian teak finished the same way.

gofastsandman · #8 06-13-2012, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bushwacker

I followed those directions to the letter and have had good results so I'd recommend you do the same. I did wet sand between coats, I think with 220 grit.

Always great stuff.

You only really need to scufff with a light grey pad. Hit with acetone to crack the shell and bond. 1500. Build up is what you want. Pros sand for the first time after 10 coats.

Good tooth at 80 is what you want to start. Call the fine folks in Maine. Ask.

Cheers,
GFS

Islandtrader · #9 06-14-2012, 08:10 AM

I read some place that for the best protection if you are using the wood finish gloss that for the ultimate UV protection you should then put 2 coats of clear varnish over the wood finish.

I know for a fact that the Varnish(epifanes) has more UV inhibitors than the wood gloss (I checked with Maine).