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#1
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Boats gonna be put to the test so I'm trying to think ahead a little.
Will a .25" Moeller Cross linked poly tank hold up to the abuse of daily pounding offshore? |
#2
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welcome aboard. where you fishing out of? show us some pictures of the boat as she sits now. what's your plans for power. just remember to take on 1 part of the project at a time,complete that then move on to the next.
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#3
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Hi Kneedeep, I'm on Cape Cod. The pics don't look like much, but I must say I am extremely impressed with the solidness of the deck, and the general condition of the gelcoat.
The only real structural issue I have found is with one of the engine bed/mounts. It seems like the mount is delaminated, i'm guessing it got water in a bolthole and freeze/thaw cycle did it in. Should be an easy fix. Probably gonna throw a gm small block and use the I/O the PO had rebuilt. BTW your project gave me the grapes to tackle it, thank you. If you don't mind me picking your brain I have quite a few questions to ask about how to make things go smoothly. |
#4
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The 73 Tsunami was damn near perfect. Hate to see one get carved up, but hey, it's your boat. Any chance I could get the balance of the cap, bulkhead and windshield from you? For cheap?
![]() Good luck with your project. Knee Deep did a heck of a job! I'm sure he'll be a tremendous resource ![]()
__________________
there's no such thing as normal anymore... |
#5
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Mcgillicuddy, if, i'm correct you are on the west coast? Might not be cost effective to ship 3k miles.lol If you are close by PM me and you can come check out what I have. I am trying to toss out as much as possible so it doesn't create to much of a pile as I work. Point being don't waste time getting back to me.
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#6
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Cabin, bulkhead, and windshield are off. I unbolted the center section of the windshield, slid it out, and cut the cabin in half. It was too heavy for me to manhandle in one piece.
For those who may attempt this, a valuable tip is to screw a piece of 1x6 to the circular saw base, this raises the saw guide enough get the blade a little closer to the curve thus saving more usable rail. It also lets you guide the saw from a better location. I used an old carbide blade, cut through like it was nothing, with very little dust compared to a grinder/mason blade. |
#7
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try and make your cap follow the lines of the front deck where your toes meet the inliner,you want to be able to stand straight up against the bolster. you need to mark a line 3 or 4'' behind the front bulkhead across the top of the cap. maybe 8''on both sides of your center line
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#8
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I have absolutely no experience with I/O's, and I am a little overwhelmed prospect of re powering.
I was kinda thinking I could find a used GM vortec engine and buy a simple harness/pcm and drop it in, Is this doable? Also the engine mounts seem to be hollow and kinda flexible kinda like they have been compromised. What would be the best way to go about fixing this problem? I bought the boat without an engine so I did not get to learn by disassembling, but how is the engine actually fastened to the mount? |
#9
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__________________
there's no such thing as normal anymore... |
#10
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Thanks for the pointer Kneedeep. I get what you are saying, I definitely want to be able to lean against the rail, makes for a much safer feeling boat. Did you router the edge of the PVC board? What kind of release agent did you use? The stuff they sell up here isn't completely smooth.
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