Battery switch ?

[Old'sCool]

Genuinedealz is the ticket for wiring. Visit their site and price them out. There's a voltage drop calculator there also. Get the "add-a-battery". I moved mine under the console and added a positive and negative post mounted to transom, engine leads go there and new cables to console go there. The third is the additional charging lead I'm not using. If there's room in your rigging tube it's not that bad to pull new one's just make sure the length.

[Normagain]

I know the ACR type systems are popular but using two deep cycle batteries is still a good option. I just alternate trips on them to keep them fresh. I do overnight trips on one deep cycle running a bait tank all night and have never run them down low enough to cause starting issues.

[oldfielder]

That system seems fine too. I have just been happy using the combiner the last few years and have had excellent longevity out of Seahawks SLA batteries with it. I like the idea of both betteries being conditioned on each trip, especially if I won't be out for a while.
If you are disciplined enought to rotate batteries then forego the ACR.
The yandina combiner is a nice alternative,as well, because it comes with all of the leads and is a simpler install. It does not protect against the voltage drop at startup, though, like the blue seas.

[bumpdraft]

I would leave the starting battery back near the motor. I have one deep cycle battery on a switch and it powers everything but the motor. I have a cranking battery hooked up straight to the motor, no switch. I have not had a problem this way and it has worked the best for me. I just replaced my cranking battery a few weeks ago. Not because I was having problems, but I got to looking at it and saw that it was 8 years old! I replaced with new one and I'm now using the old battery in my camper. A friend of mine has his batteries hooked up together on a switch and it drives me nuts every time he starts his engine and spikes the GPS.

[sidelock]

I appreciate all the advice but this is even getting more complex. Wildman is saying that with an add on & a switch, "the electronics don't get a jolt when you shut down & restart the engine. No waiting for the GPS to reboot " & Bumpdraft is saying " a friend has his battries hooked up together on a switch & spikes the Gps every time he starts the engine " Should I assume that the best way is to hook all the electronics to the trolling motor batteries and have a separate starting battry for the engine ? Since the trolling motor battries will be in series to provide 24v, can I still somehow hook up the 12v electronics to them ? & if I switch these battries, will it jolt or ill effect the electronics in any way ?
This is all new to me , graduating from a tiller tin boat to an 18'SF & I would like to keep things fairly simple but SAFE & practical/functional.

I have a starting battery and I'm in the process of installing two AGM battries for my 24V Minn Kota .The only electrical/electronics I'm running are navigation lights,bilge pump,tach,volt meter,fuel gauge,vhf radio,compass and an old outdated fish finder that I will eventually replace.

Would like to hear more opinions/advice/suggestions on spesifically hooking up the system described above .

[oldfielder]

The blue seas ACR basically has a lockout circuit that ties into your starting circuit/key switch and when it senses the voltage drop and ultimately spike of your motor's starting circuit, protects your charging end from the voltage swing Since many newer electronics are very voltage sensitive they will shut down when they sense the drop to avoid damage. You then need to restart them. Many contend that even with this protection, this process is hardly good for such sensitive instruments.
The Add a battery system from them basically gives you a tidy way to tie everything together, turn your battery system on, and go out and enjoy the day without worrying about it.
I have done a few of these systems and they are great, as are the tech guys at the company. They will hang on the phone with you and discuss any install issues with you and seem happy to do it. I am a fairly new customer of theirs, but I am very happy to plug their stuff.
If I were in your shoes, with the new boat, 100 bucks for the Add a battery and then a few more on wire would be my route. Nice new wire and you know your charging circuit is in great shape and down the road when you start craving fancy electronics-which you will-you will have a simple system.
I would keep the trolling motor setup just like you have it.
The best prices I have found for the Blue Seas stuff, btw, is a site called Inverter Service Center. They owner(forgot his name) of the company is a former marine tech, very responsive, and super helpful, as well. Give him a try.

[sidelock]

[QUOTE=oldfielder;206
"I would keep the trolling motor setup just like you have it"
[/QUOTE]

Not qiute sure I understand what you are suggesting. Are you saying keep the trolling motor batteries (24v) just for running the trolling motor , add a battery for my electronics & keep the starting battery for cranking (four batteries)
If that is the case it would equate to approx. 240 lbs in battery weight alone for the four batteries.