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  #11  
Old 08-19-2012, 04:02 PM
Max_Florida Max_Florida is offline
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Default Some advice from a former newbie...

I purchased my Seafari about 11 months ago... since then I've learned a lot about boat repairs, but I'm sure that my level of knowledge greatly pales in comparison to a lot of guys on this board. Here are a few pieces of advice from my experiences...(more experienced members feel free to correct me):

1) Epoxy seals wood by adhering to it and forming a waterproof barrier. "Soaking" the wood with thinned epoxy will not help to prevent it from rotting. Depending on how long you want your repair to last, you can choose to use coring material ranging from everyday plywood to composite materials that will never rot. http://www.seqair.com/skunkworks/Glu.../Thinning.html

2) Before you start the repair I would strongly suggest reading the West Systems how-to guide several times. http://www.westsystem.com/ss/use-guides/

3) When you cut out sections of old fiberglass, try not to cut any sharp angles. Meaning, the shape of your cut-out should look like a blob(if you follow the rotten wood) or a circle/oval. Corners will leave a weak point in your repair.

4) Buy 50% more mat and resin than you think you will need(or 2x as much even). I would highly recommend US Composites. Their prices are reasonable and I have been extremely happy with their products. Buy lots of plastic cups and brushes. You can re-use the cups if you can get all the cured epoxy out, but in my experience cups will eventually crack/break/whatever. In addition, if you are unsure exactly what to order call them and ask to speak to a tech guy, they will tell you what you need and how to do the repair.

5) You will spend 2x as much money and it will probably take 3x as long as you think it will.

6) I don't know you, your boat, or your situation... But ask yourself if your soft gunnels affect your use of the boat? Would the time and money be better spent on other endeavors? I spent about 10 months and $10k partially restoring my boat instead of using it... Some repairs I'm glad I made, others I sometimes question whether they were worth it.


Time spent fixing = Time not spent fishing(or whatever)

I would also prioritize your repairs in order of what really affects your use of the boat. E.g. before you start fixing your soft gunnels, ask yourself - what does your wiring look like? Do you have good bilge pumps and switches? Is your motor solid?

I'm not trying to discourage you from fixing up your boat, and I'm not trying to act like a know-it-all - but from reading your one post you sound almost exactly like I did 10 months ago.

Good luck and if you need any advice on simple stuff feel free to PM me
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  #12  
Old 08-22-2012, 07:10 AM
pelican pelican is offline
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Location: cape may nj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonV View Post
I'm backed in a corner on my gunnels, I really have to do it this year....especially the port side. I'm guessing one of the previous owners never heard of 5200, I mean why drill a giant hole to mount a fricking drink holder and not seal it?? I'm 90% sure I'm going through the top. I plan on using Kiwigrip so I don't think the fairing has to be dead perfect like I tried to accomplish when I did the transom.
sealing something down and using 3 m 5200,isn't the best approach to assure the gunnel's sealed - water will enter the core from below,as well...
the hole needs to be coated in epoxy,this will seal the wood against water migration...

another thing that i've ran into on various client's boats,is the fact people can't grasp the concept,of installing rod holders in the gunnels -these holes need to be drilled at the correct angle - seems alot of people just drill a large hole and butcher it to make the rod holder fit - lost count of this method of installation i've seen...


going the "top" route to recore gunnels:

not much "skin" on the underside of the gunnels - it's much easier to go from below,versus above -using a composite material is definatley the way to go...

but...if your weight,body weight and size,is making that a problem,perhaps putting the fork down,and getting a little exercize,for a few months before beginning this repair would help ?

refinishing the gunnels after recoring : best method is rolling awlgrip...
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Last edited by pelican; 08-22-2012 at 07:13 AM.
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  #13  
Old 08-22-2012, 07:55 AM
DonV DonV is offline
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"if your weight,body weight and size,is making that a problem,perhaps putting the fork down,and getting a little exercize,for a few months before beginning this repair would help ?"

That's crazy talk!!!! If you had added "and quit drinking beer", that would have been stupid crazy talk!!!
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  #14  
Old 08-22-2012, 08:44 AM
fdheld34 fdheld34 is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pelican View Post
but...if your weight,body weight and size,is making that a problem,perhaps putting the fork down,and getting a little exercize,for a few months before beginning this repair would help ?

...
...so I need to do some training prior to the repair...darn it.... It is just hard for me to bend and contort my body in precarious positions
..my son keeps me busy though...


guess I'll see what Don Herman is up to...he is spry and limber!!!!

Don I agree with you ...just plain crazy talk
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Last edited by fdheld34; 08-22-2012 at 09:27 AM.
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