Help me qualify a rebuilt 1972 20'?

[lhbaxley]

I'm looking for a turn-key, Potter Built 20' CC. Found one with the following rebuilt items in 2002. Also has a 2010 E-tec 150 with very low hours. Can you coach me on questions to ask regarding quality of rebuild? Thanks in advance for any comments/suggestions

• Disassemble and clean hull to deck joint flanges.
• Bond with WEST Pro-Set and 316L SS pop-rivets, fillet bond interior side.
• New TACO rubrail and insert, 316L SS fasteners
• Clean and fillet bond liner to hull joints with ProSet where accessible in rod lockers
• All scuppers and through transom drains are sleeved with ProSet bedded G-10 tubes. Cockpit sole scuppers have adhesively bonded external venturi clamshell shrouds - they produce excellent vacuum when underway.
• Vinylester laminate repairs were required along centerline/amidships. Access hole in cockpit sole, inside console, required for access. 2 Batteries sit on the cover plate.
• Fair/align hull bottom, Duratec VE fairing, Interlux 2000 to 12 mil DFT
• Replace transom with22 Kg/m 3 Divinycell PVC foam in vinylester putty/vinylester laminates, DuraTec blue VE fairing
• Awlfair and Awlgrip hull
• All hatch hinges replaced with GEM hinges
• Hatch lift fittings replaced with GEM latching/locking fittings, cores closed-out with ProSet epoxy
• All hatch flanges D section weatherstripped
• All new smoothbore bilge pump discharge hoses
• Ancor tinned wiring / shrink tube on all connectors
• Re-positioned fuel fill from the top of the console ( where overflow flooded the instrument panel) to a recess-mounted filler on the port side of the console.
• Leaning post with integral storage box, room for a 65 Qt. Igloo cooler.
• Extra tall plex windshield.

[mrobertson]

The engine can be confirmed by a dealer if you are worried about the shape it is in.

The boat - unless it was done by someone you know, or a professional marine service than the quality of the work is only as good as the word of the person who's telling you they did it. If that person is a complete stranger, its up to you whether or not you trust them.

IMO - if the restore was done by a private party, then that person should have loads of pictures of their work. I've just finished restoring my 2nd seacraft and for both projects i have hundreds (maybe thousands) of pictures from start to finish. Should i ever sell one of my SC's, my pics will prove the work i've done and the manner in which i did it.

[McGillicuddy]

IMO '72s were built well. Based only what I see listed, the restoration reeks of quality. My guess is that the quality of the materials, fittings, finish, and motor choice, the job was done by someone with a solid plan. For a boat of that caliber, I would recommend you get a surveyor to walk you through it with you and give you a professional assessment as I'm guessing the rig is at least $17-20+K.

I may have missed this but does it have a flotation bracket?

It wouldn't surprise me at all to learn that the work wasn't done by regular on this website... Good luck.

[gofastsandman]

Originally Posted by McGillicuddy

IMO '72s were built well. Based only what I see listed, the restoration reeks of quality. My guess is that the quality of the materials, fittings, finish, and motor choice, the job was done by someone with a solid plan. For a boat of that caliber, I would recommend you get a surveyor to walk you through it with you and give you a professional assessment as I'm guessing the rig is at least $17-20+K.

It wouldn't surprise me at all to learn that the work wasn't done by regular on this website... Good luck.

Few amateurs know of the 316 "L". Pursue at length. Good flag there.

Cheers,
GFS

[Bushwacker]

A dealer can print out a report from the E-Tec engine computer that includes tons of info, such as: engine hours, no. of start cycles, max rpm, max temp of both heads, max EMM (Engine Management Module, the engine computer) temperature, no-oil time, stored engine faults, persistent engine faults, engine rpm profile (time@rpm, in 500 rpm increments), engine temperature profile of each head, EMM temperature profile and oil setting (if it's set to run full synthetic XD-100 oil, where it will use less oil than if set for conventional TCW-3 oil). Will give you a good snapshot of any problems the engine's had and how hard it's been run, as well as whether or not it was propped right. Nice to know all that stuff if you're buying a used motor!

OPTIMUM WOT rpm for that motor is 5500-5600. If you want maximum performance and engine life, run XD-100 oil and ignore the "Recommended WOT Operating Range" of 4850-5850 rpm that many uneducated dealers seem to think is acceptable!

[lhbaxley]

Thanks to all for your help. Yes, the rig is priced right around 18k. The owner is definitely knowledgeable (in the industry). He says the outboard has less than 10 hours on it. Frankly, I'm not all that concerned about the outboard due to age/hours/warranty but I'd still have it checked out. No on the the flotation bracket. The seller did inform me that the deck is "tired" and will need to be replaced in the near future. Any clue what that would cost? I'm up in MA so I'd want it done somewhere in New England. It sounds like the rebuild was done by someone in CT. I think the name was Brian Lelahand (sp?).

[shine]

I wonder why do all that work and not fix the sole/deck ?

If the sole and cap were re-cored and bonded back to tops of stingers, then it would be basically "new"

At that price, with a new motor, its probably a good deal.

Any clue what that would cost?

depends how they do it, if they just cut out the old one and put in a new deck, then maybe a couple thousand.

I did not see anything about the fuel tank? Its probably close to the end of its life, you might want to replace it when you have the deck done

[otterhound]

Everybody I knew with a rotten boat was pouring that stuff everywhere, including my father. It didn't always end well
Rod

[otterhound]

Sorry about that, wrong forum.