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  #1  
Old 02-23-2013, 10:11 AM
scowman scowman is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martin View Post
spent a half day measuring and then cutting and gutting out the transom
That's good time for that work and your result looks clean and professional. May I ask what tools you used to clean the inner transom skin? Looks like power tool marks. Maybe an angle grinder? What blade?

Can you also tell me how you got the wood out from around the edges? That can be real PITA.

Cheers,

Ken
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  #2  
Old 03-03-2013, 11:43 AM
martin martin is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: panama City Fl.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scowman View Post
That's good time for that work and your result looks clean and professional. May I ask what tools you used to clean the inner transom skin? Looks like power tool marks. Maybe an angle grinder? What blade?

Can you also tell me how you got the wood out from around the edges? That can be real PITA.

Cheers,

Ken
Hi Ken,
First I measured the width of transom at Top, Middle, and Chine to chine also from Port gunnel to Starbord Chine and visa versa. I recorded all these measurements First and would re -measure so to keep track of the movement of the hull.
Then i used a block as a jig and traced the outline inside the hull..
Then i used a 4" angle grinder with a diamond blade. and cut on the lines
When I got to the top cap. I pulled all the screws out about a third up the lenght of the cap and used my Hoist to lift it up.. I then cut the rest of the transom up.
I put a few blocks to hold the cap up and just started to pry and pull the rot off the back...
I used a Bostich 36" wrecking bar, a eastwing claw hammer , a craftsman ballpin, and 2 steel flat wedges and some old large flat head screw drivers..
The rot was significant so it really wasn't so bad... as for the corners.. I tried to get the most out in the middle of the transom and then with the hoist and some notches in the wood. I used the hoist with a rope tied to the notch to Pull up and it rolled out the plywood for the most part in one piece...
when all the wood is out. I used a mirror to inspect the back side of the glass around the perimeter .. and a very sharp hand chisel i used to chisel out the remaining wood from the glass...

I then used a 7" angle grinder with 36 grit and ground the inner glass down. In some places I had to use a 4" flap disc and or twisted wire cup wheel for the stubborn areas.. I washed the area with acetone and then I scrubbed and Pressure wash with degreaser..

Last edited by martin; 03-03-2013 at 11:13 PM. Reason: Forgot to mention
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  #3  
Old 03-03-2013, 10:44 PM
scowman scowman is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martin View Post
Hi Ken,
First I measured the width of transom at Top, Middle, and Chine to chine also from Port gunnel to Starbord Chine . I reacorded all these measurements First and would re -measure so to keep track of the movement of the hull.
Then i used a block as a jig and traced the outline inside the hull..
Then i used a 4" angle grinder with a diamond blade. and cut on the lines
When I got to the top cap. I pulled all the screws out about a third up the lenght of the cap and used my Hoist to lift it up.. I then cut the rest of the transom up.
I put a few blocks to hold the cap up and just started to pry and pull the rot off the back...
I used a Bostich 36" wrecking bar, a eastwing claw hammer , a craftsman ballpin, and 2 steel flat wedges and some old large flat head screw drivers..
The rot was significant so it really wasn't so bad... as for the corners.. I tried to get the most out in the middle of the transom and then with the hoist and some notches in the wood. I used the hoist with a rope tied to the notch to Pull up and it rolled out the plywood for the most part in one piece...
when all the wood is out. I used a mirror to inspect the back side of the glass around the perimeter .. and a very sharp hand chisel i used to chisel out the remaining wood from the glass...

I then used a 7" angle grinder with 36 grit and ground the inner glass down. In some places I had to use a 4" flap disc wheel for the stubborn areas.. I washed the area with acetone and then I scrubbed and Pressure wash with degreaser..
Thanks, That's the best response I've ever had on any board, any topic, any time!

If I could ask another question, how did you settle on the remaining skin to edge distance? I have seen some a couple of inches longer. seems the longer it is, the better/stronger the tie in will be but the hard to get the remaining wood out. Are you going to wrap the glass around the edges?
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  #4  
Old 03-03-2013, 11:08 PM
martin martin is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: panama City Fl.
Posts: 1,061
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scowman View Post
Thanks, That's the best response I've ever had on any board, any topic, any time!

If I could ask another question, how did you settle on the remaining skin to edge distance? I have seen some a couple of inches longer. seems the longer it is, the better/stronger the tie in will be but the hard to get the remaining wood out. Are you going to wrap the glass around the edges?
I forgot to mention the twisted wire cup i used on my 4" grinder.. It worked very well for removing the wet wood that was still bonded to the glass.. It does not gum up just eats away at the wood..

As for the edge i wanted to get most of the rot out and be able to install my new foam piece easier... I am going with a1.5 inch 20 desity foam bord with two 24 oz roving inter twined in the foam.. Kinda like coosa board but alot cheaper..and i will be wrapping the glass around the transom quarters. And will not be using the outer skin... Just epoxy and glass..
I cut pieces of glass and tabbed in the inner liner to the outer edge of the transom. So i will have a clean slate to work with.. I am also skinning the inside liner with acouple of layers one 1708,0-45 and 1808,0-90
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