1972 20 Potter Hull - How Far Should I Go?

[Blue_Heron]

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. You won't improve the value of an original condition Potter hull by cutting into it.

I would not recommend raising the transom if it's solid. With that light 4cyl Johnnyrude on the back, 20" will be fine. If the deck isn't soft, it's because water hasn't gotten to the wood core. Make sure any holes drilled for fasteners, existing or new, are sealed so water stays out. Do this and your deck will last indefinitely. No worries about the stringers. It will probably need new wiring.

If you're concerned about the tank, you can remove the console and the deck hatch and inspect the tank. If it's not foamed in place, it's probably fine.

If it were mine, I would clean the boat, clean out the fuel tank, put some gas in it, get a new battery, and see if that old motor will start. Then I'd run it a while with the old motor to get used to the handling. Once you've used it, you'll have a better idea what you want to do to customize it.

[Caymanboy]

Originally Posted by Blue_Heron

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. You won't improve the value of an original condition Potter hull by cutting into it.

I would not recommend raising the transom if it's solid. With that light 4cyl Johnnyrude on the back, 20" will be fine. If the deck isn't soft, it's because water hasn't gotten to the wood core. Make sure any holes drilled for fasteners, existing or new, are sealed so water stays out. Do this and your deck will last indefinitely. No worries about the stringers. It will probably need new wiring.

If you're concerned about the tank, you can remove the console and the deck hatch and inspect the tank. If it's not foamed in place, it's probably fine.

If it were mine, I would clean the boat, clean out the fuel tank, put some gas in it, get a new battery, and see if that old motor will start. Then I'd run it a while with the old motor to get used to the handling. Once you've used it, you'll have a better idea what you want to do to customize it.

X2!
The only thing I would say, being a 72' I think the tank is mounted on the deck under the console, no? If that is the case, do as Blue heron says and at some point you may want to install a tank under the deck. If it is not the case, do as Blue Heron says.

[flyingfrizzle]

Make sure you seal up the screws that holds the transducer bracket so the transom won't rot and any other holes you may find. Then get her running and enjoy!

[Fr. Frank]

Okay, X3. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Seal every bolt, screw, and their holes that you can find going into the hull, deck, or transom, INCLUDING the ones that have screws in them currently, inside and outside of the hull.
Use a polysulfide/polysulfate sealant like Boat Life, or 4200 by 3M, NOT silicone. If you never, ever want the the thing attached to come loose, you can use 5200 caulk by 3M.
Back the existing screws out carefully, seal the screw and screw hole, and replace carefully.

Keep the motor if it runs well. That hull was originally designed to have a single outboard motor weighing between 220 and 320 lbs, and from 70 to 140 hp.
I sold more new 20' SeaCrafts with 85, 90 and 115 hp motors back in the 80's that any other hp range.
I can tell you that in 1984, the #1 most popular motor we sold on the back of a new 20' SeaCraft Superfisherman was the 297 lb, 115 hp Mercury inline 6 cyl. The #2 in popularity with new owners was the 301 lb, 85 hp V4 Evinrude/Johnson.

If you do choose to repower, at 337 lbs the 90 hp Tohatsu/Nissan 4-stroke is the closest to the originally intended hp & weight for that hull.
The 90 Yamaha is next at 366 lbs.
If you want more power, but still want to stay under 400 lbs, at 375 lbs the 90/115/135 Etec and 90/115/125 Optimax are only 9 lbs heavier that the Yammie and you can get 135 hp for that weight. (The Etecs and Opti's both regularly dyno at 4-7% more than their rated hp, too)

My last 20' SeaCraft had a 90 hp Optimax and performed extremely well, AND GOT 5.7 MILES PER GALLON.

[FishStretcher]

Blue Heron is right.

Seal screw holes really well. Use 4200 or 5200 and glue down a tapped piece of fiberglass or aluminum to the transom for holding transducers, rather than drilling below the waterline. That's the only additional trick I can offer.

And DO check under the trim on the transom cutout. I have a thread on that alone!

Originally Posted by Blue_Heron

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. You won't improve the value of an original condition Potter hull by cutting into it.

I would not recommend raising the transom if it's solid. With that light 4cyl Johnnyrude on the back, 20" will be fine. If the deck isn't soft, it's because water hasn't gotten to the wood core. Make sure any holes drilled for fasteners, existing or new, are sealed so water stays out. Do this and your deck will last indefinitely. No worries about the stringers. It will probably need new wiring.

If you're concerned about the tank, you can remove the console and the deck hatch and inspect the tank. If it's not foamed in place, it's probably fine.

If it were mine, I would clean the boat, clean out the fuel tank, put some gas in it, get a new battery, and see if that old motor will start. Then I'd run it a while with the old motor to get used to the handling. Once you've used it, you'll have a better idea what you want to do to customize it.