What material for Risers?

CHANCE1234 · #1 12-03-2013, 06:17 PM

The floor sits on a bed of putty on top of the stringers

flyingfrizzle · #2 12-03-2013, 10:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CHANCE1234

The floor sits on a bed of putty on top of the stringers

That's what I was about to say. Big ol globs of potter puddy. No screws. That will leave a place for water to get in. Use resin thickened with cabosil. (Similar to original potter puddy) Run a thick bead and bed the floor down in it. If you use epoxy it will bond together well.

flyingfrizzle · #3 12-04-2013, 02:39 PM

This is how I plan on doing the floor in my 20' cc. Billythekid did an awesome job on this one. Your stringers may be the twin wide ones instead of the quads but you can do it about the same way. Molding the floor section will make for a lot less sanding in the end vs laying the wood down, laying glass on top of it in the boat then fairing and sanding your brains out.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...=18607&page=14

fishmore2013 · #4 12-04-2013, 08:37 PM

I don't think mine will come out like that. What a great job! I did pull the floor up tonite and this is what I found, see pic
I am picking up 3/4 marine plywood tomorrow and will probably use the plywood to get the correct deck height.
Any reccomendation on which scuppers to use for through transom?
Thanks again to everyone replying, the expertise on this website is great.
Jon

parrott · #5 12-06-2013, 03:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flyingfrizzle

This is how I plan on doing the floor in my 20' cc. Billythekid did an awesome job on this one. Your stringers may be the twin wide ones instead of the quads but you can do it about the same way. Molding the floor section will make for a lot less sanding in the end vs laying the wood down, laying glass on top of it in the boat then fairing and sanding your brains out.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...=18607&page=14

That floor is nice but time consuming also. I just like the fact that running some ss screws in the deck is that much more secure. Done right u shouldnt have to worry bout water intrusion. And running the cloth from one side of the floor to other ties it in well. I know the three different floors ive ripped up came up pretty easy w just the potter putty.
Fish u could just take 2" strips laminated together and outline the box stringers to desired height. plus u will want something around the perimeter of the hull for the floor to rest on too.

flyingfrizzle · #6 12-06-2013, 07:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by parrott

That floor is nice but time consuming also. I just like the fact that running some ss screws in the deck is that much more secure. Done right u shouldnt have to worry bout water intrusion. And running the cloth from one side of the floor to other ties it in well. I know the three different floors ive ripped up came up pretty easy w just the potter putty.
Fish u could just take 2" strips laminated together and outline the box stringers to desired height. plus u will want something around the perimeter of the hull for the floor to rest on too.

I agree with the time consumption, I takes longer to mold a floor but you dont have to do all of the fairing and sanding to true it up vs screwing it down and glassing in place. You will spend time either way. I rather spend mine making a mold table vs sanding and fairing. It still will take longer doing the mold but I feel like it makes a better looking, truer, straighter floor.

Far as the screw thing, The screws hold well till water gets in around them and soaks into the wood. I have pulled several redone floors apart including the one I am working on now and it seems like there is always more rot around the screw holes. The top of the screws gets sealed well but you cant really get to the back side to seal the wood where you added it to raise the stringers. You can back them out and add resin then put them back in and that will help but you will not have the same waterproof as if it was left just bonded down with thickened epoxy. I have used screws in the past myself but have tried to stop doing it under the deck area...

Either way it will last a long time, The main reason I started doing floors this was is I dont like all the sanding and fairing.

More than one way to skin a cat! Thats just my 2 cents. Im not a pro so take it for what it is worth.

fishmore2013 · #7 12-08-2013, 06:05 PM

I Finally removed the rest of the floor and now on to the new floor install. You were right about the Potter Putty(in the original floor). The last floor was unlaminated 3/4 inch plywood that was rotted. At least the inner hull looks to be in good shape. Pretty amazing after all the neglect!

fishmore2013 · #8 12-08-2013, 06:16 PM

Can anyone comment on the set up and placement of weight in these boats?
Old set up
2 main batteries all the way aft behind and up against the gas tank(plastic), 3 car batteries for the trolling motor located all the way in the forward compartment.
Potential new set up-
3 trolling motor batteries located at same level as the gas tank(below floor) under the front of the Centerconsole and then the 2 main batteries on the deck under the centerconsole.
I would think the more weight located lower in the hull would be better?
The pic is of the old Battrey compartment located in the area about two feet infront of the transom below the floor.
Thanks Jon