![]() |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I would think the ss would work well if you could flare it. The brass flares ez with the right tool but the ss would not do well with that same tool. If you do something similar to what flex is saying it may work but hard as 316L is you may have a time getting the flare right.
__________________
Current SeaCraft projects: 68 27' SeaCraft Race boat 71 20' SeaCraft CC sf 73 23' SeaCraft CC sf 74 20' SeaCraft Sceptre 74 20' SeaCraft CC sf |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I thought about going to larger brass tubes when I replaced the originals on my Tsunami,but I was a little scared off by having to enlarge the tube exit hole on the hull where its got that wedge to help suck out the water.
I ended up leaving it the way it was. I was new to this kind of stuff when I did the resto,but looking back,I wish I had,because the 1" brass tubes are no where near large enough to drain the deck fast enough. Not sure on flaring the stainless,but if you go with brass,it helps a lot to anneal the brass with a torch before you flare them.Heat the tube red and just let it cool.Flares a lot easier,with no cracks at the edge of the flare. They can split sometimes if you flare them raw.
__________________
All this,just for a boat ride |
![]() |
|
|