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#2
06-13-2014, 09:25 PM
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#3
06-14-2014, 12:47 AM
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Sandwich (foam or balsa) core is a great stiffener. But it really would be easier to start with a CC. I just got done playing with a lot of 1/2" divinycel H80. And 3/4" H80. It is great stuff, but an entire hull would be a lot of work. It works really well with 1708 DBM as far as I can tell. But I am burnt out doing bulkheads and hatch covers. I think I sent north of $2500 on foam, vinylester, glass and consumables (for my 25 footer). You would need similar amounts in terms of dollar value. And work every weekend it wasn't raining. I hear divorces are expensive, but I haven't gotten that far yet. I probably spent an extra $600-$800 recently on "date nights" to try to strike a balance there. Plus a trip to the opthamologist for fiberglass in the eye, and a few hundred in Ryobi and and glassing tools. Two respirators, extra organic vapor cartridges, maybe 8 boxes of nitrile gloves, two moon suits, 4 gallons of acetone, 20 squeegees, 36 2" wide chip brushes, a dozen paint roller trays, a half dozen heavy ( 4 mil) plastic drop cloths...
A CC really is cheaper. Especially if it has semi working electronics or controls. I probably have $3K in low-midrange Lowrance gear on the 25 and it still needs a real VHF and a better bilge system. Probably $1000 in ethanol proof tanks. It will need a few hundred in A1 fuel hose. Your 20 might be cheaper in this regard. It still needs anti siphon valves, ethanol proof line, squeeze bulbs, water separators, O/B controls and instruments, if you don't have them. And a T-top. Those aren't free. And a 150 4 stroke is too heavy for a 20 , IMO. A 150 with an OK prop probably is worse than a 115 with an optimal prop for performance. And aluminum props are $100 each. That's a lot of guesses, and a few spares between a 115 and a 150 in terms of dollars. The 150 might have 3 MPH for cruise speed over a 115. The 115 will have better low end planing speed. With a F90 or an e-tec, you won't need tabs. I have never priced them, but between 400-600 bucks smells right. Plus 14 more holes in the transom. 4 per tab, 3 per cylinder. Times 2, plus switches, pumps, controls, fusing, wiring. I can hang with some 25-26 foot makos in a chop with a F100 on a 20. With a 20 gallon tank. Get a SF or Master Angler with a notch, I say. If I had the money for a motor, I would try a 90 or 115 e-tec for the weight. But I have a $1000 4 stroke 100 hp with a 4 blade and fin, and 6 hp kicker. It was super cheap. Still too heavy. But I don't need trim tabs. And it floats with a holed hull the way I worked it over.
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#4
06-15-2014, 08:31 AM
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Thanks for the advice fishstretcher. The reason I want to rebuild this boat is because I enjoy projects like this and really want a boat set up exactly the way that I want. My big boat is all fixed up and I need a new project and ran across this little guy for next to nothing. I have done my fair share of glass work and think I can build a pretty sweet boat that will be solid as a rock!! As for the engine, I can get a sweet deal on an etec 115 right now and might pull the trigger. What are your performance numbers with that f100?
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#6
06-17-2014, 10:11 AM
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You got a blank canvas to work with, study many rebuild post and make decisions wisely. Lots of good information up here to learn from and many will help along the way. She looks as bare as my 71 20'. Lot of work ahead of you, count on it taking 3 times as long to do it and 3 times as much money but you will have a boat 3 times as nice as most others once your done! Good luck on your venture.
__________________
Current SeaCraft projects: 68 27' SeaCraft Race boat 71 20' SeaCraft CC sf 73 23' SeaCraft CC sf 74 20' SeaCraft Sceptre 74 20' SeaCraft CC sf
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