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  #11  
Old 09-15-2014, 07:43 PM
gofastsandman gofastsandman is offline
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Originally Posted by dginge View Post
It is a myth to me if that's the case. Dry hull weight on 18 is 1400 pds. Dry hull weight on 20 1600. Beam is one inch different. 2 feet should make the boat ride better. I guess I'll find out soon. Will let you know.
Either way light is right. Unless you enjoy training porpoise.
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  #12  
Old 09-15-2014, 08:11 PM
Terry England Terry England is offline
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Originally Posted by gofastsandman View Post
Either way light is right. Unless you enjoy training porpoise.
Sandy, wouldn't a 20 ride a lot like an 18 with a 2' hull extension?
"Flipper, Flipper - the King of the Sea!
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  #13  
Old 09-15-2014, 09:10 PM
dginge dginge is offline
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Light is right?
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  #14  
Old 09-15-2014, 09:21 PM
Blackfin26 Blackfin26 is offline
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Looking to redo an 18' as well. I am thinking the new Suzuki 90 is the ticket. 365lbs or so I believe. With battery under console hoping it will be "light is right" and will self bail and not need tabs.
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  #15  
Old 09-15-2014, 11:23 PM
Snookerd Snookerd is offline
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Originally Posted by Bushwacker View Post
I would bet that an 18 with light 2-stroke power will ride better than a 20 with a ~500 lb 4-stroke on the transom. I speak from experience because my boat rode better with a 300 lb motor on the transom than it did with a 430 lb motor shifted 30" aft on a 150 lb bracket. Min planing speed went from 12 mph to 22-23 mph! By adding trim tabs, a Doelfin and a stern lifting 4B prop, I got it back down to 12 mph but at some penalty in speed and fuel burn.

And if you want more storage, take a look at a 20' Seafari or Sceptre!
Denny- I totally agree.....just because people can put a 500 lb motor on a 20 doesn't mean they should. That crowd that doesn't pay attention to the value of the CG is overlooking one of Carl's major ingredients to the great ride.

My 2 18's with v4 2 strokes had no tabs and were beasts offshore!
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  #16  
Old 09-16-2014, 04:41 AM
Old'sCool Old'sCool is offline
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Originally Posted by dginge View Post
Light is right?
Light weight engine. PM inbound about your boat.
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  #17  
Old 09-16-2014, 08:14 AM
dginge dginge is offline
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I understand light engines on potter built boats are imperative, I own an 18sf with a 2stroke 150hp. It runs great but it will always be an 18 foot boat. I have a family of 4. Correct me if I'm wrong but aren't the (2000's) 20sc WITHOUT COFFIN BOX made to take a larger more modern engine and still built on the exact 20 mold? It's a different cut out and transome height. Thanks
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  #18  
Old 09-16-2014, 08:19 AM
gofastsandman gofastsandman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry England View Post
Sandy, wouldn't a 20 ride a lot like an 18 with a 2' hull extension?
"Flipper, Flipper - the King of the Sea!
Bud, get the launch.
Lassie, what is Flipper trying to say to us?

Layup here...
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  #19  
Old 09-16-2014, 08:32 AM
Terry England Terry England is offline
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Originally Posted by gofastsandman View Post
Bud, get the launch.
Lassie, what is Flipper trying to say to us?

Layup here...
It's a Formula!
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  #20  
Old 09-16-2014, 09:28 AM
Snookerd Snookerd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dginge View Post
I understand light engines on potter built boats are imperative, I own an 18sf with a 2stroke 150hp. It runs great but it will always be an 18 foot boat. I have a family of 4. Correct me if I'm wrong but aren't the (2000's) 20sc WITHOUT COFFIN BOX made to take a larger more modern engine and still built on the exact 20 mold? It's a different cut out and transome height. Thanks
People want a 150-200 on their 20's and 4 strokes are what are on the boats....try both a light 20 with under 430 lbs of motor then a 20 with 500 lbs of motor. Most guys who know the difference will agree with a light motor. DF 140 / E-Tec 150-200 2 stroke is the most power vs acceptable weight IMHO.
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