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#1
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what size weight trailer for a 20sf?
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36' Yellowfin 1972 20' seacraft 140 suzuki http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=18607 |
#2
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I would look for a 3500-4000 lb capacity dual axle trailer even though thats a little overkill:
1600 lbs dry hull weight + 1200 lbs motor and gear + 700 lbs trailer totals 3500 lbs. If you get a dual axle trailer it trailers real nice, the wheel bearings are very lightly loaded and with enough weight capacity a flat is not a total disaster. The biggest drawback I know of with excess capacity like that is having stiffer torsion axles/springs; martinis in the cooler get shaken, not stirred. BTW - I love your thread; beautiful work thats totally worth standing on my head to look at. ![]() |
#3
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I know I know it will be the last time I get lazy and post from my phone!
I have a line on a 2400 trailer but I though it might be to light.
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36' Yellowfin 1972 20' seacraft 140 suzuki http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=18607 |
#4
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I had a 3500 lb under my 74 20 when I had it. That would be as light as I would go.
Murphy's law has a tendency to visit me more often than not though.
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1974 Seacraft 20' SF with 1985 Evinrude 150 VRO 1987 Seacraft 23' Scepter with 2007 250 HP Evinrude Etec |
#5
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I have a 3500 lb. single axle under mine - I've towed form Cape Cod to the Keys and back 4 years running for the winter and have had no issues. On long tows I make sure little or no fuel in tank and no extra weight in the boat.
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#6
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You need a 3500 lb single axle trailer. More is nice, but not necessary.
In Florida, if your trailer is fairly recent manufacture, you also MUST have brakes on a trailer of that size or larger.
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Common Sense is learning from your mistakes. Wisdom is learning from the other guy's mistakes. Fr. Frank says: Jesus liked fishing, too. He even walked on water to get to the boat! Currently without a SeaCraft ![]() (2) Pompano 12' fishing kayaks '73 Cobia 18' prototype "Casting Skiff", 70hp Mercury |
#7
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SC also. Rear tie downs in Fla too.
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#8
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I have a dual axle with surge brakes. For tax purposes it has a 4990 lb rating. But with the 4 13" tires I think it would do 6200? It is overkill but if something goes wrong, the extra capacity is a huge bonus. Salt water eats steel trailers. It is nice if you don't have to worry if the rusty looking springs will fall off going over expansion joints. I don't know what the cost differential is for used twin versus single axle, but I like having dual axles.
Also, I just got electric brakes for the 25 footer trailer. I am an INSTANT convert. They are amazing and very effective. It was $70 for a timer controller. Now I get 13000 lb to stop on a DIME. And no goofy backing up lockout mechanism. The local boat place told me to try it, as hydraulic brakes rot out or bind up in a few years anyway. Plus the parts are cheap and no bleeding lines. |
#9
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Hey Bill I'm with Stretch on the dual axles. 13" tires with duals is great for the 20'er, if you go single you will have to go with 14" tires. Last time I put springs on my trailer for the 23'er I upgraded to the 2000# springs versus the original 1750# springs, what a difference. It is more stable and tows much better. A lot depends how far and how much you trailer, to and from the boat ramp at let's say ten miles a single is OK, towing long distance go with dual axles.
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#10
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For what it's worth I have used a single torsion axle float on trailer with the 10 ply 20 inch doughnut tires and a wire loop and latch instead of the winch stand for years and really like it. I load the in a flash! It keep the boat close to the ground (aerodynamic) and tires last a long time. Tires are harder to source, but i seldom need them. It's as close to maintenance free as one can get.
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