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#1
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Thanks for the reply Oldfielder. He sandwiched the silicone for added seal with the gasket provided as an extra measure. I am with you, I think it is ok. He is a good mechanic. After looking through this site at all of the rotted out transoms and floors I am on high alert to all the penetrations. I would really like to avoid a restore for as long as possible. I just want to go fishing. Great idea using the flashlight at night, I will definitely do that.
He gave me the full shop manual for the outdrive so I think I am good there but it would still be nice to have the pdf. I will pm you. Thanks! I don't think it has been really gone through since he installed it 6 years ago. It has 280 hours on it. I was going to do the impeller as soon as I get it home. Thanks, Keith |
#2
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there's info concerning the waterpump in there,along with some general info. follow the advice given -it WILL keep you out of trouble the MPI motors,are very smooth,powerful and reliable ! I've used quite a few of those 5.7/5.0 MPI motors on repowers -both straight inboard and stern drive applications. the fuel economy you will get,it will impress you !!
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do not let common sense get in your way |
#3
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silicone:
sealing the transom assembly against the transom: there's a seal from the factory attached to the transom plate - me,i've used black 3m 5200,a quick smear is all that's needed.silicone has no place on a boat.i've lost count of the transom assemblies I've installed... water intrusion: stern drives - look where the cut out is,for the transom assembly - this area is often overlooked - this area needs to be sealed - if it's a wood core.seal it with EPOXY,not the cheap porous polyester resin - this is often overlooked... 3m 5200 : the inexperienced will tell you it's permenant - it's not ! few things I noticed in the pictures : nylon/plastic thru hulls -I see one,port side -you need to be careful with these - plastic will become brittle and break/crack - not a good thing... prop - looks to be the standard aluminum prop - looks like it's been run through the mud or sand - you may want to send that in for reconditioning lenco electric tabs - seen quite a few problems with those and sea water intrusion side notes: additional bilge pump - allways good idea to install a second bilge pump -wire this to a seperate battery than the other pump - feed power to the auto float switch from the battery terminal behind the battery switch though a waterproof in inline fuse to the float switch lead. separate thru hull,and hosing high bilge water alarm - install one !!
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do not let common sense get in your way |
#4
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Probably the biggest thing is to make sure you have power to the bilge pump. Boats at the dock don't usually get a huge leak - mostly a small one that drains the battery as the bilge pump cycles. If the bat drains because of a slow leak, the boat slowly sinks. If you are not on shore power then get a solar panel on it and make sure you don't accidentally turn off power to the pumps.
![]() The weird place on my 23 that had a slow leak was the scupper. The port side brass tube had corroded through but you couldn't tell except for the slow trickle in a flashlight beam after crawling into the transom and laying on top of the motor. The wood backing block was jello from the leak - it even leaked in from rain on the deck while sitting on the trailer. There are more threads here about scupper issues than I can count and 4x as many opinions. The good news is that after it has been in for a while you quit worrying as much... |
#5
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Pelican,
Thanks a lot for your recommendations! It is nice to have access to people so knowledgeable on this site. I replied to some of your comments below. Thanks, Keith Quote:
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#6
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transom cut out - look inside the boat - it's where the transom was cut out to allow the transom assembly to fit... thu hull - it's on the port side - looks like maybe a bilge pump outfall ?? it looks like it's plastic... that other set of pictures - the prop was black - looked like a standard aluminum prop lenco trim tabs - the actuators often fail - due to water intrusion -actuators not the tab screws bilge pumps - NEVER share thu hulls !! separate thu hull for bilge pump exits !! smooth hose as well !!
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do not let common sense get in your way |
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