Re-coring question

[CHANCE1234]

So this is what I've done so far. Removed wood core, cleaned with acetone, mixed some poly resin and applied to the whole underside to saturate the un wetted strands. When dry I roughed it up with 60 grit, wiped with acetone again and applied system three fairing compound to make it as even as possible. Tomorrow I will sand that down and apply more fairing compound as necessary and sand to get it damn close.

After that I will cut to fit the Nida core leaving a one inch perimeter all the way around. Then I will cut a piece of mat wet it out and put it on the under side. Before it fully kicks I'll put down some hull and deck putty then the Nida core with weight applied. Once cured I'll cover the core with one layer of mat followed by one layer of woven since I don't have any 1708 on hand. Does that sound sufficient?

[FishStretcher]

Personally, I think you have to go all epoxy now, or grind out the fairing compound.

I'd go polyester, personally, as it wets the mat. And I'd just clean it up with a 36 grit belt sander. I'd skip the hull and deck putty, and pre-wet the nidacore skin. The nidacore I have took resin well. I used it with VE and 1708 for my "Whaler bench seat/tank cozy" project.

You do want thickness under the nidacore/ for the topside of the hatch for penetration resistance. Much less is needed on the underside.

With respect to mat- plain old biax may lay flatter, so you might want to skip that on the topside of your laminate (the bottom of the hatch). It gave me fits. ( I made note of this)

I would also put tape or biax in the trough section of the layup- for better screw and screwhead holding.

I in-lined rather than linked a pic of the finished product (with PVA and bits of glass still on top. I put peel ply on top, then paper towels, edit: THEN 4 MIL POLYETHYLENE SHEET, then plywood, then car batteries. That was almost too much and started to dry out the laminate, but that's because it didn't kick for nearly a day. That approach should be fine for a normal layup.

And no, the H80 core isn't centered, but it works.

Originally Posted by CHANCE1234

So this is what I've done so far. Removed wood core, cleaned with acetone, mixed some poly resin and applied to the whole underside to saturate the un wetted strands. When dry I roughed it up with 60 grit, wiped with acetone again and applied system three fairing compound to make it as even as possible. Tomorrow I will sand that down and apply more fairing compound as necessary and sand to get it damn close.

After that I will cut to fit the Nida core leaving a one inch perimeter all the way around. Then I will cut a piece of mat wet it out and put it on the under side. Before it fully kicks I'll put down some hull and deck putty then the Nida core with weight applied. Once cured I'll cover the core with one layer of mat followed by one layer of woven since I don't have any 1708 on hand. Does that sound sufficient?