jack plate on 20' Seafari

[bigeasy1]

The 20 Seafari I bought is still sitting in the same spot when I brought it home.I can't decide what I'm going to do with it. either repower it or sell it.
One thought I had was to buy a used outboard and drop it on the boat,do a little wiring,maybe fabricate a raised splashwell to keep the water out and play with it down at the CT. shore,maybe do some striper or whatever fishing.

So here's the question,the transom is made for a 20" motor,but I've found some halfway decent deals on 25" motors.
Could I use a jack plate on the transom to be able to raise a 25"motor to the proper height,or would I have to raise the transom at the engine location to the proper height for a 25" motor?
I'm looking for the easiest way to do this without a lot of glass work as the transom was replaced and is very good condition.
I do know that if I go ahead with this,one thing is for sure and that is to construct a raised splash well enclosure to keep water out of the boat in snotty condition's I'm not a fan of that original design with that open splash well only a few lnch's from the water line.

So can I use a 25" with a jack plate or should I just go with a 20" motor?

[Vezo, Part II]

Hello Big! I am currently in literally, the SAME boat! My brain has been all over the place with this project. My 76 was an I/O originally. I want to cut out engine box, cut in and create a 25" transom. Just got my hands on an old SeaVee single engine cowl and placed it in the approximate location, but did not take a pic yet. Next I will need to fabricate my own splash well.

All I ever wanted was a SeaCraft with an enclosed transom!!!

Vezo, Part II

[bigeasy1]

Originally Posted by Vezo, Part II

Hello Big! I am currently in literally, the SAME boat! My brain has been all over the place with this project. My 76 was an I/O originally. I want to cut out engine box, cut in and create a 25" transom. Just got my hands on an old SeaVee single engine cowl and placed it in the approximate location, but did not take a pic yet. Next I will need to fabricate my own splash well.

All I ever wanted was a SeaCraft with an enclosed transom!!!

Vezo, Part II

Looks like you have more work to do than I do.
.My plan is only to fabricate a type of surround that will run around the back storage boxes/seats and across the front of the engine and leave enough room so it can be tilted completely up without hitting.
If I had the greenbacks,I'd have Hermco make one up as he told me he still has the mold.The cost plus shipping makes it a non option.
There's some pieces of foam board laying around at Mertons that could be used for the project.
I'm starting to like this boat more and more,but there is also part of me who is questioning whether I want to get in deep at this point in my life.
Got the house on the market,and thought it would sell quick(I was wrong)looks like I'm stuck here for a while. Now I'm laying out $15,000.00 for a new septic system.

I could have bought some beautifully restored Seacrafts for that kind of money

Good luck with your project,post up some pics when you get going.

[Bushwacker]

John,

The simplest approach would be to keep looking for a fresh water 20" motor. I think quite a few bass boats use a 20" motor, so you should be able to find a deal on them. Maybe PM Big Shrimpin . . . I think he's found some good deals on fresh water 20" motors. If you stay with OMC, you might be able to use your existing controls & gauges, etc. That boat would run nice with a light V-4 on it; a V-6 is overkill and will probably burn about 30% more gas! Denny

[bigeasy1]

Originally Posted by Bushwacker

John,

The simplest approach would be to keep looking for a fresh water 20" motor. I think quite a few bass boats use a 20" motor, so you should be able to find a deal on them. Maybe PM Big Shrimpin . . . I think he's found some good deals on fresh water 20" motors. If you stay with OMC, you might be able to use your existing controls & gauges, etc. That boat would run nice with a light V-4 on it; a V-6 is overkill and will probably burn about 30% more gas! Denny

Many thanks Denny.
If money was no object I'd get a nice used E-Tech for it. Every once in a while I come across one that's priced reasonably but they don't have enough pony power. For a starter I think I'll try selling the old seized GT150 Johnson on it for parts. as you mentioned I think I'll keep the control box just in case.

[SandlapperGT]

Hi Big,

I have seen a 5"' "riser" plate offered by one (or more) of the jackplate manufacturers. Here is one from CNC that I think is what you are looking for (http://www.cmcmarineproducts.com/pro...ical-extension).


It wasn't cheap and looked like it would be pretty easy to fabricate.

[Vezo, Part II]

I used a "5 in 1" manual jack plate from Bob's Manufacturing on my 1982 Whaler 15 Sport. To be honest, just to avoid filling old non-standard original engine mounting holes, known as the lower "blind holes" application of that era. Bought the plates, and drilled holes to match original holes in the transom, mounted, then mounted engine to jack plate.

Twenty four pounds, $240.00, and able to dial an F60 into dangerous perfection. Trimmed up completely out of water as well.

For the 1988 15 Sport, I purchased and have resold comparable unit from Vance Manufacturing, similarly priced. Preferred the Bob's. Both were rated at 150 horsepower.

Hydraulics would be even better, but with less weight and less expense, this application worked flawlessly, once dialed to two lightweights aboard, 18 gallons of fuel under the rear thwart, and a 48 quart cooler full of adult beverages, this rocket was like a Porshe on the water.

I think that even with a 25" transom on my Seafari, I would do another Bob's!

Part II

[DonV]

I just bought a 6" set back manual jack plate for up to 225 hp manufactured by Vance on ebay for $206, shipping and all, how can they make them this inexpensive??