DF300 23 Sceptre

[Bushwacker]

Danny, I think I'd focus on getting engine height correct before you start changing props. You might pick up some rpm by raising motor and reducing LU drag.

Engine friction losses may also decrease a bit once you complete break-in, giving you a bit more HP at the prop. Although the E-TECs don't require a break-in and don't seem to experience any performance change once they get past the initial extra oil period (2-5 hrs >2500 rpm), some 4-stroke automotive engines typically run a little better after they "loosen up" and the rings get seated. Didn't notice any changes after break-in on my BMW, but those engines are bored & honed with head plates at the factory to insure perfectly round bores on new engines after assembly. That's an old hot rodder trick not done on most high volume production engines, where the bores distort slightly during assembly due to head bolt loads, creating high/tight spots that have to be worn down during break-in. Don't know if Suzuki machines their outboards with head plates, but that could determine if you gain any hp after break-in.