Crack in transom, port side only. What do you think?

[Stauter99]

Others may disagree, but in my opinion you want a solid, one piece transom core. If it were me, I would not just patch the bad spot, I would go ahead and replace the whole thing. If you aren't up for doing it yourself I would recommend Mike Lasarge at Fiberplastics on Halls Mill.

[Terry England]

Jeffro, It looks like you might be able to put a 3" or 4" aluminum angle across the transom just under or above the fibergalss transom stiffener that is already there. If you can "catch" a couple of the bracket or engine bolts that's even better. Have someone weld a couple of 4" X 6" end plates on the ends of the angle and through bolt them to the sides of the transom well with some backing plates on the inside of the battery boxes. That should hold you until the fall and don't forget to trim the mushrooms off if the grow up through the crack - we have our "standards".

This is a common problem with two stroke outboard motors - they have too much torque. If you had one of them mild mannered, Mr. Rogers four strokes with the same torque as a hamster wheel you wouldn't have these kinds of problems, fer gosh sakes. Since that OX-66 will last you until about 2036 you, got some time to pick out one you like. By then you'll be old and OK with going slow.

Poking the 2-S / 4-S embers!

[Capt Chuck]

Originally Posted by Terry England

Jeffro, It looks like you might be able to put a 3" or 4" aluminum angle across the transom just under or above the fibergalss transom stiffener that is already there. If you can "catch" a couple of the bracket or engine bolts that's even better. Have someone weld a couple of 4" X 6" end plates on the ends of the angle and through bolt them to the sides of the transom well with some backing plates on the inside of the battery boxes. That should hold you until the fall and don't forget to trim the mushrooms off if the grow up through the crack - we have our "standards".

Come on Terry, you know the drill--------> 1974------> 40+ year old transom. The transom is shot, period.

Jeff,Don't spend a bunch ching into temporary fixes. Removing the motor, rigging disconnects, bracing metal plates etc etc etc.....bite the bullet dude, it's time.

Think safety first not another few rides while I can.

Sorry just my 2 cents, what the hell do I know anyway, I don't even own a SeaCraft anymore......Good Luck in your decision.

[Terry England]

Originally Posted by Capt Chuck

Come on Terry, you know the drill--------> 1974------> 40+ year old transom. The transom is shot, period.

I know Boss, but June a bad time of the year for Tyvek - Global Warming, Short Red Snapper Season and all. Just try'in to help a poor Coon Ass boy limp by till October! Jeffro, get an Epirb, SeaTow membership and roll on Brother! The Gulf over there is dotted with Oil rigs you can shimmy up on - just bring 'ur ear muffs.

[TomParis]

I have been thinking about this too, because if I am going to buy a new motor I would want to make sure my transom is solid.

This is what I was looking at it, you can pick it up at the factory in Ocoee which is a suburb of Orlando. I have watched some videos demonstrating the installation process.

http://www.boatoutfitters.com/Coosa-Board


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y6132VcsXBk

[shine]

Originally Posted by TomParis

This is what I was looking at it, you can pick it up at the factory in Ocoee which is a suburb of Orlando. .....]

We have the same transom foam for much less

[TomParis]

Tell us more Shine, I am all ears!

[jeff6645]

Shine, I may take you up on the foam this winter... but maybe sooner depending on what I decide to do.

[FishStretcher]

Originally Posted by Terry England

Jeffro, It looks like you might be able to put a 3" or 4" aluminum angle across the transom just under or above the fibergalss transom stiffener that is already there. If you can "catch" a couple of the bracket or engine bolts that's even better. Have someone weld a couple of 4" X 6" end plates on the ends of the angle and through bolt them to the sides of the transom well with some backing plates on the inside of the battery boxes. That should hold you until the fall and don't forget to trim the mushrooms off if the grow up through the crack - we have our "standards".

This is a common problem with two stroke outboard motors - they have too much torque. If you had one of them mild mannered, Mr. Rogers four strokes with the same torque as a hamster wheel you wouldn't have these kinds of problems, fer gosh sakes. Since that OX-66 will last you until about 2036 you, got some time to pick out one you like. By then you'll be old and OK with going slow.

Poking the 2-S / 4-S embers!

Do this. Aluminum C channel will be far stiffer and stronger than fiberglass. It is what I did on my 20MA. It works great. I used 6063 alloy with radiused internal corners. I got away with 3 feet in the splashwell and two below deck between stringers. I am on year 3. I got a single 5 foot piece from McMaster (.com) and it picks up all 4 outboard mounting holes. I sealed it down with some 3M 5200. It is bulletproof figuratively, and almost literally.

Heavy underpowered 4 strokes make torque on the transom as they bounce on the trailer at 70 mph.

[flyingfrizzle]

You can add plate or channel to patch it up to get you by till it cools off or the end of the boating season but I agree with Captain Chuck. If you are going to do a repair, Do it right and replace the whole transom.