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Old 02-23-2017, 08:01 PM
FLexpat FLexpat is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2014
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I hadn’t realized how long it has been since I posted to this thread but, between parents and kids, a bunch of stuff kept me from doing much over the last year. Finally slipped out to boat for a couple of days and started back at it and am also posting a few things I had not included before.

Finally finished up the engine beds by putting the motor mount risers on them. Used 4 layers of 1808 getting progressively larger with each layer. Now I won't get water standing outboard of the engine beds.
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Made a pipe chase for the drain from the forward fishbox and glassed it to the underside of the fuel tank support. It lines up right next to the keel. I hate hoses and stuff laying in the bilges and I don’t want that box draining to the bilge so a hose from the box will go to a macerator pump mounted in the engine well. I wrapped PVC pipe and a couple of aluminum angles with poly sheeting for a mold and put a couple of layers of 1708 onto it, popped it off the mold then epoxied it onto the underside – it seems like it will work pretty well and the inside is about ¼” larger than the hose to the macerator.
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Cut out the starboard side of the deck. I left a 2-½” lip all the way around to bond the new deck to since I want to keep the edge features (hatch lips and gutters). About 2/3 of the core was plywood squares and about 1/3 was balsa; it seemed like the plywood was forward by the helm, along the hatch lips (maybe that was plywood?), and aft by the motor box while the balsa was mostly outboard and midship. It is pretty clear that the pedestal seat mount was the primary source of water and it migrated aft. It seems that plywood makes a much higher quality mulch than balsa but they were both pretty bad although the balsa was still ok right by the scupper gutters where I cut the deck. Maybe the carpenter ants just like wet balsa more than wet plywood and left more for compost? Before I put the new deck in I will seal the lip edges where the wood core is still good and I will fill with glass where it is rotten. I am thinking of just using some 3/8” thick preformed strips (from McMaster) and driving them in with epoxy to bond after I finish scraping the mulch from between the upper and lower skins. I noticed that the upper and lower skins are roughly the same thickness. All this is interesting to me in that it is NOT very consistent with the 1973 Boating article with info about the about the construction of the 23. The Potter putty on the stringers was mostly intact but broke off pretty easily. Over the years we have found pieces of putty in the bilges (it seemed like a lot) and I took out the lower skin thinking I would find the source but it didn’t look like too much came from this side. Like others have noted, the holes in the stringers for foam had not been sealed. I dug down in several places and the foam seems dry so far – I even stuck long screwdrivers all the way in and they came back dry but I will be sealing those holes. I was surprised by the foam outboard of the stringer but it was dry too. The stringers are definitely not parallel with the underside of the deck – the putty was only ¼” thick by the fuel tank and almost an inch in other places.

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