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Old 05-30-2017, 12:35 PM
Capecafe Capecafe is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 23
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Thanks FishStretcher. My main question is whether or not to use a single 1.5" thick Penske board, cut into four pieces, with the outside and bottom pieces fit tightly into the sides and bottom of the hull?

I'd cut the Penske at 45 degree angles so the center piece was locked behind the edges and bottom pieces. I would lay in epoxy between the Penske pieces and with a layer of 18oz biaxial cloth sandwiched between the inside of the hull and the outside skin. I'd then scarf the outside hull skin to a 12:1 and filet in. That would provide for a new thick layer of epoxied cloth on the inside and outside of the new core material.

When all laid, will the four pieces of 1.5" Penske board be as strong a single piece when sandwiched between the resin soaked 18oz cloth and adhered to the original inside and outside skin?

This weekend I took off the aluminum motor well trim and original plastic thru-hulls to get a better idea of the extent of the rot and see how much work is going to be involved in cleaning out the rot in preparation for the new material. I've attached a couple pictures of the current condition. It amazes me the original engine still hung. Not only was it still hanging, the transom didn't even flex a bit when I bounced on the motor before pulling it. The port side of the transom is almost completely devoid of any type of solid core. The only semblance of a core left was under the motor mount and it is soaked through and easily peeled off the skin.
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