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#1
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I too solder and shrink tube all connections but if you do, you need to make sure they are properly supported afterwards or you may end up with wires that break right where the solder ends due to the constant movement of being on a boat. I like the adhesive wall shrink tube. If you must crimp, use high quality connectors and a good crimp tool. Most people don't own a real crimp tool, and a soldering iron is much cheaper. Edited because one of my statements made absolutely no sense.
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1971 Potter built center console. |
#2
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to function properly !! If there is a lack in carrying capacity in the wiring system the bulb gives out prematurely ... My electrical engineering degree from the early 70's still stands.. ![]()
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See ya, Ken © |
#3
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I do NOT have an electrical engineering degree, so I clearly don't have the background that you do. I would like to understand this because I find it interesting. I know my way around a fluke, and did 12v electrical work for 15 years and this never came up before. What exactly is it that happens to the bulb that kills it? I would not think lower current capacity of the circuit would cause MORE heat to the bulb. I would think less, which would extend the life of the bulb. Yes?
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1971 Potter built center console. |
#4
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I'd use an LED bulb instead of incandescent (filament type). Incandescent bulbs can get pretty hot in small metal enclosures without any ventilation.
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