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  #1  
Old 10-13-2017, 09:02 AM
Basketcase Basketcase is offline
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I really like those boats and think my next resto should be one. I've also taken the "never again" oath. Lol.
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  #2  
Old 10-13-2017, 10:25 AM
FLexpat FLexpat is offline
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This is gonna be a great build to watch! Probably much faster than the 3+ year coddling of my Sceptre shaped lawn ornament too; I admit the 2000+ mile 'trip to the boat shed' is definitely hindering my schedule.

One thing I never figured out for mine is better way to access the bow while having the access watertight and the hard part; not in the way when up there.

Really hoping Brian comes up with a good solution here that I can copy!
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  #3  
Old 10-13-2017, 12:43 PM
PackRat PackRat is offline
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Location: Eastern Shore, MD
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I think 2000 miles is a valid excuse for delays....

The forward access is an issue. Don't think a hatch is in the plan for this one as I want to keep things as clean as I can and there will likely be a space issue as you mention.

My initial thought is to shorten up the bow rail so it ends say 10 inches forward of the windshield base and clear off all other stuff along the gunwhales except for maybe a pop up spring cleat and just go up the sides with a low profile hand rail on the hard top. Gunwhales are skinny but I think I would rather go that way than try to put a step and pad on the companion side of the helm and try to maneuver over the cowling. I would think that EZ2CY curtains or similar are going to be added at some point forward which is another obstacle that says go around.

My first boat was a 24 Topaz that had a tower and three sided enclosure and going up the side worked best although it had maybe a couple more inches of width to step on and a lot of stuff to grab on to along the way.
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  #4  
Old 10-23-2017, 08:08 PM
PackRat PackRat is offline
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Engines out and drives / drive hardware off. Just holes in the transom at this point. Surprisingly the transom seems pretty solid. Some oil / grease contamination in the plywood at the cutout for the drives but no obvious rot. Will be a little dilemma if the moisture meter says dry....Was hoping for rot for ease of removal.

Bit of a mess to clean up but LOTS of volume to play with and many ideas....

Come on cool weather- much better to wear all the dust fighting stuff when it's cool!
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  #5  
Old 10-25-2017, 08:20 AM
Basketcase Basketcase is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PackRat View Post
Come on cool weather- much better to wear all the dust fighting stuff when it's cool!
Aint that the truth. Not much worse than being tarred and feathered with sweat and fiberglass dust.
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  #6  
Old 10-25-2017, 05:57 PM
Mshugg Mshugg is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PackRat View Post
Surprisingly the transom seems pretty solid. Some oil / grease contamination in the plywood at the cutout for the drives but no obvious rot. Will be a little dilemma if the moisture meter says dry....Was hoping for rot for ease of removal.
Why remove? If it's dry and rot free, cut back to clean wood, plug the holes and tab in the plug. You could then beef up the transom with an additional layer of core and glass.
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  #7  
Old 10-25-2017, 09:54 PM
PackRat PackRat is offline
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Agree if dry- Will see what I learn from the moisture meter in the coming days....
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  #8  
Old 11-01-2017, 07:51 PM
PackRat PackRat is offline
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So got the boat off the trailer and blocked up last week.
Was able to go over the transom with a moisture meter to see how things looked. As expected on a 40 year old boat, the meter pegged wet on a lot of area. On the port lower side showed wet while Stbd upper side suprisingly was pretty dry. Might be hard to make out grease pencil marks in below photos.
Don't want to invest all the time in the deck, stringer, and bracket work over a wet or moist core. Out it comes...
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