'72 Super Fish 20' Rebuild

JBASS02 · #1 10-23-2017, 10:47 AM

I've been getting everything in order to begin tearing into the transom. Last week I sold the engine, picked up a used smaller trailer so the boat will fit in my garage and cut into the transom... First unexpected problem, it appears that someone has attempted to repair part of the transom in the past. Some sections have what looks to be a pored in foam(Seacast maybe?) while other areas are rotten plywood. The problem is that the glass is really bonded to the areas with the foam. I'm afraid the glass is going to break rather than separate. Does anyone have any recommendations for a method to remove the glass?

flyingfrizzle · #2 10-23-2017, 03:43 PM

7"grinder with 36 grit sand paper on a backing wheel...

oh yea a few dust mask, your going to need them

JBASS02 · #3 11-06-2017, 11:31 AM

Update- I was able to remove the transom fiberglass in one piece by wedging long shims between the two sheets of plywood then taking a oscillating saw and cutting the outer sheet of plywood. The area I thought was poured in foam turned out to be shoddy thickened epoxy work. Is this typical? The fiberglass thins and is replaced with epoxy as it goes to the outer edges of the hull (see photos). There are many large voids in the epoxy filler I'm assuming I need to remove as much of this epoxy as possible and replace it with fiberglass? I'm having trouble figuring out how to remove the transom u-bolts? it's too tight to get a socket or wrench inside to remove the nut. Any recommendations? I may just cut them out and relocate new ones lower on the transom?

JBASS02 · #4 12-02-2017, 11:45 PM

I've been slowly chuggin along. I got the transom all cleaned up and ready for the coosa. My Dad will be in town this week so hopefully we'll get the transom glued up. The last time the fuel tank was replace they simply cut the top off the old tank and placed the new tank inside. I was able to remove both tanks today. It appears I'll be able to reuse the tank. Just so everyone know what level of noobie they're dealing with, the fiberglass patches on the counsel are the first time I've ever fiberglass...

JBASS02 · #5 12-02-2017, 11:54 PM

Just in case someone else has to remove carpet glue. I sprayed Bean-e-doo let it sit for 24hr, then scraped with a puddy knife. Most of the big chunks came off easily. Then I sprayed Bean-e-doo again let it sit for 24hr and then scrubbed the deck with a stiff brush(non metal). Then pressure wash. It was a lot of work (and i'm not quite done), but I think it was easier than sanding and re-gel coating/awlgrip.

JBASS02 · #6 12-03-2017, 12:30 AM

I have a couple of questions regarding transoms.

1. I had read on another thread that people were recommending building the transom at 26" instead of 25", is this typical?

2. If I install two bilge pumps, one at hull level and one elevated, do I need a drain plug? The only thing that will be draining into the bilge will be the anchor locker. It seems like if I get a little water in the bilge I can just pump it out. Not having a drain hole would be one less thing to forget/maintain.

3. I've read several post where people use side scuppers rather than transom or the original thru deck. What is the advantage to this?

I'm trying to finalize my transom design any thoughts or recommendation are always welcome.

JBASS02 · #7 12-28-2017, 10:33 AM

The transom is dry fit and ready to be epoxied. The wildfires slowed progress but hoping to get a bunch of work done in January and have a motor on by end of February. You can see the amount of ash that was falling on Santa Barbara during the fires. The boat was outside for ~24 hours.

Rybones · #8 01-11-2018, 11:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JBASS02

I have a couple of questions regarding transoms.

1. I had read on another thread that people were recommending building the transom at 26" instead of 25", is this typical?

2. If I install two bilge pumps, one at hull level and one elevated, do I need a drain plug? The only thing that will be draining into the bilge will be the anchor locker. It seems like if I get a little water in the bilge I can just pump it out. Not having a drain hole would be one less thing to forget/maintain.

3. I've read several post where people use side scuppers rather than transom or the original thru deck. What is the advantage to this?

I'm trying to finalize my transom design any thoughts or recommendation are always welcome.

I've also posted and been reply to in this regard. Some saying 26 some saying even 30. I'd like more clarification on the 30. I like what you are doing, I have a lot of the same work to do to a 74 I have. Currently it's completely usable without the fear of catastrophic failure, but they're soft spots in the deck and one side of the transom has an eerie Hollow sound to it when knocked on. Although in my case, this isn't something I need to address immediately, but the check is in the mail.