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  #1  
Old 05-19-2018, 08:54 AM
caper caper is offline
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Originally Posted by Cape Codder View Post
Why do you say raise it to 26"? Im looking at 25" motors.
Typically the motor anti-cav. plate will end up being about 1" to 11/2" above the bottom of the boat so 26" will work better to allow more freeboard at the transom. Raising to 26" is good and seasoned advice.
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Old 05-21-2018, 10:00 PM
Cape Codder Cape Codder is offline
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Typically the motor anti-cav. plate will end up being about 1" to 11/2" above the bottom of the boat so 26" will work better to allow more freeboard at the transom. Raising to 26" is good and seasoned advice.
Thanks for explaining but do you mean the anti cav plate will be an inch below the bottom of the boat?. And will the extra inch of transom height affect how the prop pushes the boat at all?
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  #3  
Old 05-12-2018, 10:32 AM
caper caper is offline
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X2 on the 26". Been there done that.
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  #4  
Old 05-13-2018, 04:52 PM
martin martin is offline
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Make sure the transom has not warped. My transom was so bad the weight of the motor created a sag and bubbled out the transom skin...also I qoukd recommend the guy wrap the transom quarters with A few layers of glass tYing the back and side. Epoxy is what I did miNE in cause of the mechanical bond
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  #5  
Old 05-13-2018, 10:15 PM
erebus erebus is offline
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Originally Posted by martin View Post
...also I qoukd recommend the guy wrap the transom quarters with A few layers of glass tYing the back and side. Epoxy is what I did miNE in cause of the mechanical bond
Also ask him to throw in a couple of knees, one centerline and two off the stringers.
Not that much more work, and a world of difference in terms of transom stiffness.
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  #6  
Old 05-18-2018, 03:05 PM
Cape Codder Cape Codder is offline
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Originally Posted by erebus View Post
Also ask him to throw in a couple of knees, one centerline and two off the stringers.
Not that much more work, and a world of difference in terms of transom stiffness.
Sounds like good advice but he's planning on doing the job from the outside. Is it possible to put knees in that way or would he have to do the job from the inside for that?
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  #7  
Old 05-18-2018, 10:22 PM
erebus erebus is offline
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Originally Posted by Cape Codder View Post
Sounds like good advice but he's planning on doing the job from the outside. Is it possible to put knees in that way or would he have to do the job from the inside for that?
I put knees on my 75 SF 18 and on my new to me 79 23 Sceptre. Both transoms done from the outside.
However, on the 23 I had a lot of the interior stripped out which made three knees a lot easier. On the 18 I just did one big knee in the middle to a Coosa pad on the inside of the transom at the lower engine mount bolts.
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  #8  
Old 05-22-2018, 09:43 AM
caper caper is offline
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No, an inch above for best and most economical performance. Won't affect how the "prop pushes the boat" but will allow you to get the motor height correct; and will give you an extra inch of splashwell height.
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  #9  
Old 05-31-2018, 06:39 PM
caper caper is offline
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Pretty much a toss up as far as materials go - never a good idea to try to make a craftsman use material other than those he prefers.
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  #10  
Old 05-31-2018, 10:16 PM
erebus erebus is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caper View Post
Pretty much a toss up as far as materials go - never a good idea to try to make a craftsman use material other than those he prefers.
What he said...
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