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#1
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Typically the motor anti-cav. plate will end up being about 1" to 11/2" above the bottom of the boat so 26" will work better to allow more freeboard at the transom. Raising to 26" is good and seasoned advice.
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#2
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Thanks for explaining but do you mean the anti cav plate will be an inch below the bottom of the boat?. And will the extra inch of transom height affect how the prop pushes the boat at all?
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#3
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X2 on the 26". Been there done that.
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#4
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Make sure the transom has not warped. My transom was so bad the weight of the motor created a sag and bubbled out the transom skin...also I qoukd recommend the guy wrap the transom quarters with A few layers of glass tYing the back and side. Epoxy is what I did miNE in cause of the mechanical bond
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#5
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Not that much more work, and a world of difference in terms of transom stiffness.
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Zachary [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
#6
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Sounds like good advice but he's planning on doing the job from the outside. Is it possible to put knees in that way or would he have to do the job from the inside for that?
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#7
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However, on the 23 I had a lot of the interior stripped out which made three knees a lot easier. On the 18 I just did one big knee in the middle to a Coosa pad on the inside of the transom at the lower engine mount bolts.
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Zachary [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
#8
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No, an inch above for best and most economical performance. Won't affect how the "prop pushes the boat" but will allow you to get the motor height correct; and will give you an extra inch of splashwell height.
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#9
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Pretty much a toss up as far as materials go - never a good idea to try to make a craftsman use material other than those he prefers.
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#10
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What he said...
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Zachary [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
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