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#1
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I’m not a boat builder either. In 2004, I was redoing a Boston Whaler 15 Sport. I inquired about epay, but it would have been overkill and expensive. Used mahogany instead for a factory finish.
However, it is so dense that I believe it will float. I would think this would be excellent for your purpose. Just remember to pre-drill, and plan on blowing through bits. As I said, it is dense, as you may know if you have used it for dock/deck building. So much so that I would not think it would need a coat of epoxy before installing. Have an extra six blocks I could use for mounting my fuel tank before closing the hatch? 4X2X3/4” or so? Vezo, Part II |
#2
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I used 5/4 (1") ipe block spacers between the fuel tank tabs and the stringers. No need to glass/resin over
The'll stay dry. PRE-DRILL is a must.
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![]() ![]() 1978 23' Superfish/Potter Bracket 250HP -------- as "Americans" you have the right to ...... "LIFE, LIBERTY and the PURSUIT of a Classic SeaCraft" -capt_chuck |
#3
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Thx all good points and yes it’s hard as hell. Plan is to 5200 4 inch X1 inch planks inline with bolt pattern of consol and leaning post. They will be staggered for gas fil line etc . Have drill and put some screws for test and works well, just don’t want to drill under size or u will break screw. Also don’t breath the dust it’s really bad for u.
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#4
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The wood is Ipe. I have worked with it in the past. VERY heavy, durable wood. Also as mentioned VERY hard (like 3X Teak). Hard to saw and plane. You need to pre drill and expect to dull the bits quickly. Probably overkill for anything but exposed dock boards.
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1977 SeaCraft 23' Sceptre W/ Alum Tower & Yamaha 225 www.LouveredProductsUnlimited.com |
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