#1
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Coosa cor samples
Well I have my first layer of 1708 on coosa and after reading about the guy in the keys having delamination problems I decide to do some Nickle size core samples and I feel pretty good but feedback is welcome. Some pulled the coosa up,some rip into the glass and some pop of clean but did leave a film of resin on coosa and none have and separation on the out side of hole and it difficult to pry the edges of glass but if you puss hard between glass and coosa u can start to break it loose. Any thoughts.
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#2
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Coosa core
I want to move forward sand all the deck and put second coat
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#3
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You will probably be fine long as you prepped the surface well prior to glassing to the coosa. I think people that have delam problems are mainly from poor prep. I had a full composite 22 foot mitchcraft flatsmaster that delaminated the stringer wraps from the hull bottom and caused major damage. The boat would of sank if it wasn't so full of foam. Looks like they did the hull shell with a blow in chopper gun and then added foam blocks for stringers after the shell fully cured and wrapped them with cloth tabbed to the hull bottom. From what I can tell they did ZERO prep to the chopper sprayed hull shell and laid glass directly on the raw finished bottom. It appears they didn't even blow the glass dust off. There was no fillet on the stringers but an hard 90 deg turn that was pressed in with a corner roller. The glass pressed tight in the corner of the stringer to hull with no fillet bonded good enough to stay. The rest of the 4 inch tabbed sides did not bond well. There was no tooth for it to bite to. Well the foamed in gas tank broke loose and the tank beat the hull bottom in the river chop and caused the stringers to delam except the small hard 90 deg section which ripped an 2 foot split threw the hull bottom. I ran to my trout spot and when I went to move 30 mins latter the hull would not break plane. Opened the hatch and the water was full to the deck bottom. I ended up limping back at a 30 deg planning angle with water running over the 25" transom out of the boat.
Here I was dealing with chopper gun layup and zero prep, yours should be fine I would think if you had a good clean surface when you first layered the glass. Always helps me to ruff a surface up with 36-80 grit prior to bonding new layers if on fully cured surfaces. Also clean well before applying.
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Current SeaCraft projects: 68 27' SeaCraft Race boat 71 20' SeaCraft CC sf 73 23' SeaCraft CC sf 74 20' SeaCraft Sceptre 74 20' SeaCraft CC sf |
#4
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Coosa core
Yes sanded 60 grit blew the dust out surface and cleaned. I don’t see any problem. What I d see s were I would sweat there are spots toward the surface of 1708 were some of the fiberglass strands were white but again on top and no delamination . Thx
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#5
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White means more resin.
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