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  #1  
Old 01-26-2019, 07:39 PM
Deathfromabove Deathfromabove is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Boynton beach, Florida
Posts: 65
Default Part Next Weekend Everyone’s Invited

You are cordially invited to my fiberglass grinding Partying

Hahahaha well still working on it the more I take out the more sins I find
Crap after crap

Cut out some transom and took it the publix to weigh
Eighty nine pound for this piece picture attached somewhere
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  #2  
Old 01-26-2019, 07:44 PM
Deathfromabove Deathfromabove is offline
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Location: Boynton beach, Florida
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Default Cutting the weight

Guesstimated weight I’ve removed so far is about three hundred and fifty puonds removed so far but it’s probably closer to four after today grinding and chipping away rotted wood and everything else that was put in a five to seven inch transom

Stringers were water logged punched a hole in both of them and couldn’t believe the water that gushed out really disheartening lol

Potter’s putty unbelievable really unbelievable hardness and strength
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  #3  
Old 01-26-2019, 07:48 PM
Deathfromabove Deathfromabove is offline
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This is the piece that weighed eighty nine pounds
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  #4  
Old 01-26-2019, 07:56 PM
Deathfromabove Deathfromabove is offline
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Default Don’t forget to RSVP for the party

Fiber glass grinding party in Boynton next weekend scallywags
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  #5  
Old 01-30-2019, 01:23 PM
Deathfromabove Deathfromabove is offline
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Location: Boynton beach, Florida
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Default Tabbing question at transom

What is the right way to lay cloth/tab at the transom rakes/chines at the underside/outside of the hull when you remove the transom totally without build up on the bottom rear of the transom to hull area?
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  #6  
Old 01-30-2019, 08:27 PM
dirtwheelsfl dirtwheelsfl is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: St. Lucie county FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deathfromabove View Post
What is the right way to lay cloth/tab at the transom rakes/chines at the underside/outside of the hull when you remove the transom totally without build up on the bottom rear of the transom to hull area?
When the boats upside down! lol

Grind out a taper where your overlaps will be. Roundover the corners just enough to wrap glass around.

You can use a straightedge to see how your taper is while youre grinding, ideally it will be just a bit deeper than the thickness your new glass will be built up. You dont want the new glass totally flush with the hull or it will print thru badly, you wanna leave a lil bit of a low for fairing compound/primer to build up...
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  #7  
Old 01-30-2019, 09:45 PM
Deathfromabove Deathfromabove is offline
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Location: Boynton beach, Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtwheelsfl View Post
When the boats upside down! lol

Grind out a taper where your overlaps will be. Roundover the corners just enough to wrap glass around.

You can use a straightedge to see how your taper is while youre grinding, ideally it will be just a bit deeper than the thickness your new glass will be built up. You dont want the new glass totally flush with the hull or it will print thru badly, you wanna leave a lil bit of a low for fairing compound/primer to build up...

Thanks Dirtwheels
Nice rebuild BTW

Was concerned that there was a special lay up to do like tabbing the inside of the transom or redoing stringers etc a friend of mine did some work a long time ago and I’ve always had a big tit down there lol
I’ve never done any reglassing like that on the outside of a hull and appreciate the feedback
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