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#1
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Appreciate it! Don't want to get off on the wrong foot with NoBones.
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#2
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![]() Quote:
Rule #1 Post early in the day ! Rule #2 Do not Post after happy hour, say 8 PM ish you risk being torn apart if my mood is not good.. Other than that we have no problem.. ![]() Good luck with your re-do.. In the end it will be well worth the effort.. Hey Don, The "pussy cat" comment is going to cost you at the gathering. ![]()
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See ya, Ken © |
#3
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You better be sweating the load that Spidercrab doesn't jump on your ass !
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![]() ![]() 1978 23' Superfish/Potter Bracket 250HP -------- as "Americans" you have the right to ...... "LIFE, LIBERTY and the PURSUIT of a Classic SeaCraft" -capt_chuck |
#4
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Thanks for the heads up Chuck. Now I am worried.
I just read your post about the center stringer being non-supportive. Mine is a 2x4 that probably weighs 6 times it's dry weight and is a nice mahogany brown. I had planned to dig it out and use my leftover 1.5" Airex to replace it as I do the stringers. If the 1/2 PVC is just as effective I should do that and not waste the money. I figured I would tie into the knee made up out of that stock. Any thoughts? |
#5
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I know I have seen the original transom layup discussed a number of times but I'm wondering if someone could check in on some specifics. Where my new transom core is at 26.5" from the keel and the original skin is at 20", what is the best sequence for infilling the 1/4" void in that 24" x 6.5" section? I have beveled back the skin beyond but should I just infill 4 or 5 l small layers to match exterior skin thickness and then wrap the full layers of 1708 through the cutout? Also, is two layers of 1708 adequate for the interior skin of my new core? Assuming 2" tab for first layer then 4" for second layer on to hull sides. Planning to clean up the bevel more beforehand and buildup in one shot if possible.
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