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Old 11-12-2019, 10:22 AM
Locke N Load Locke N Load is offline
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So, 1708 is easier to work with than 17oz cloth since it is stitched with CSM on the back to keep it's shape? The tradeoff being you have to use more resin to wet it out and don't get much if any extra strength from the CSM? My plan has always been to wet out an area, lay unwetted glass on and then wet out the glass. Squeegee and roller to get air out and excess resin off.
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Old 11-12-2019, 11:12 AM
steel686 steel686 is offline
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This is my first run at it so I would look to Dirtwheels for the best answers. Don't know where you are and what temperatures you have for pot life but laying it on dry and doing multiple layers is tougher than flipping it. I practiced on recoring hatches until I was comfortable getting cloth saturated. I did my transom from the inside and was told 4 layers of 1708 was right to match outside skin thickness with plenty of strength, test fit everything, and "keep your roller wet." Look forward to seeing you dig in.
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Old 11-12-2019, 01:21 PM
dirtwheelsfl dirtwheelsfl is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Locke N Load View Post
So, 1708 is easier to work with than 17oz cloth since it is stitched with CSM on the back to keep it's shape? The tradeoff being you have to use more resin to wet it out and don't get much if any extra strength from the CSM? My plan has always been to wet out an area, lay unwetted glass on and then wet out the glass. Squeegee and roller to get air out and excess resin off.
Pretty much... 1700 becomes like a snakeskin when wet. 1708 much more manageable.

Every situation is different and if i can wet something out outside of the boat then transfer i will. Otherwise yes wet out underneath, put dry glass on, fully saturate it and hardroll it. You dont want dry layups, so wet out first and let it absorb into the core a bit.
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