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#1
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I finished the bulkheads and installed the new switch panel and fuse block on it. I decided to go at the transom from the back. That is now cut and all of the old, rotten plywood is removed. In addition, I started on the stepdown area since that was very bouncy. I made a slight mistake in cutting through the bottom fiberglass so the entire thing came out. How would you go about putting the floor back in? I was thinking of creating a few braces to install on the bottom and epoxy them at the proper height so the floor goes back in at the right level.
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#2
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I’d put cross braces (2?) and vertical supports. 3-4 per side. Definitely below the cross braces.
Everything else sounds good. Keep up the good work. |
#3
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Thanks X, I'm making some braces out of the spare penske for the supports. I glued up the transom yesterday and it came out well with one exception. I cut each of the two layers into 4 pieces like UrbanAngler did on his project. On the outer layer, the top piece wasn't clamped properly (oversight on my part). The top is snug with the previous layer but the bottom of it sits proud by maybe 3/16" at the widest. The closer you get to the outside edge, the better it gets. I'm thinking I will cut the resin on the bottom joint and drill some holes to inject resin into the gap then clamp it down. Or should I cut the trouble piece out and just replace it?
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#4
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FWiW- knowing jt’s a little late for you. In my Seafari step down I carefully cut through the top sheet with a cut-off tool on a Dremel. Then was able to peel off the top sheet without cracking it. Actually did this fwd of the door at night with the boat in the water. Then did aft of the door a few years later after it got springy. HOWEVER, IF YOU CUT FIBERGLASS WITH A DREMEL, USE A FLEXIBLE DRIVE CABLE TO KEEP THE DUST OUT OF THE DREMEL. Learned the hard way!
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#5
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Yeah Terry, I realized I messed up after the fact. I remember reading your post about it and was trying to use your method. I just cut a little too deep. Oh well. I will be able to get it to the right height with the braces I'm making up for it.
As for the issue with the penske; I'm going to drill some holes into the gap and fill it with resin then use a 2x4 and a few bolts to bring them together. |
#6
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Should work well. Thread all. Fender washers and nuts 5/8” or 1/2” depending on space, budget, and availability
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#7
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