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#1
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Working on a 77 MA. I'm ready to place my conduit in the box stringers but I'm not sure what size I need for the engine harness and transducer cables. My motor will most likely be the Suzuki 140B, drive by wire.
The footprint of my console is around 30-32 inches wide, not enough room for a 3" pipe to route completely inside of the stringers. 2 1/2" is pushing it and I haven't been able to find the pipe anywhere. Has anyone an idea of the size of the new Suzuki harness? Is 2" pipe enough? I imagine 2" is plenty for the transducers but I'm not 100% on that either. I've never seen one over about an inch or a little more. 12 pin Airmar/Garmin tilted element and a sidevu/downvu transom mount. Both cables will be pulled through after everything is glassed in and done. Both runs will have two 90 degree turns. Hoping to get this right the first time! Thanks |
#2
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#3
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45's are more gradual than 90's if they will fit.
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#4
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Thanks for the links! The 2 1/2" flex may work. I will check to see if I can work with a 10" radius. The website says that's the tightest bend it can make.
The electrical 90's are about 6" or so radius for 2". That seems like something I could pull through. I just need to be sure that the plug fits through. |
#5
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I ran 3" really thin wall white PVC. I was able to stomp it down into the chases in the big box stringers on my 78 MA. I think it's sch. 20 drain pipe.
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#6
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The white schedule 20 pvc can be heated and belt BUT it collapses VERY easily!
It will get you more room inside do to the thinner wall thickness (OD is the same as sch.40) I’ve heard you can fill it with sand to keep it from collapsing but then the sand holds the heat Or you can seal both ends of the pipe so that the heated air inside expands to keep the pipe from collapsing .If you look at an electrical 90 degree bend and compare it to a plumping fitting you can see a major difference. The larger radius is to allow wires to be pulled much easier |
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