Help me build my dream SF20!

[pjzabo]

Hello SeaCraft faithful I have been away for awhile after selling my 1976 SF18 that I restored. I went bigger buying a 2005 McKee Craft 24 Freedom with twin F150s. But I never got over the Potter I restored. I fish the western Long Island Sound in NY which is awful choppy brown water. That 18 ate the chop better than the very good McKee which was more comfortable, safer (freeboard) and could take more folks but I want to go back to classic SeaCraft for the ride, performance, easier trailing, simplicity/purity of boating.

I am going to trailer this boat more, as I hate my local waters and want to spend 4 months in cape cod and 1-2 months in FLorida as I head towards retirement. So the SF20 is my target.

If I look at all the specs:

Hull 1600
Outboard 1508 includes people gear and motor
Max HP 175

The lightest power option seems the ETEC 150 at 433 (25") The Merc 175 is 475. I want to build the fastest SF20 there ever was. SO help me with power and prop suggestions.

I definitely want to go raised transom and 25" shaft motor but want to hear thoughts on closed transom versus 25" open and leaving stock floor height versus raising floor. A lot of folks raise the floor but I feel these boats have little freeboard so I am not a fan of that. Also if open 25" transom do you jack plate or not and what is the best scupper solution?

As I want to trailer the boat more also wondering if the 20 needs a 2 axle trailer if it is being towed a lot or if a single axle suffices. In any case I assume if a 2018 F150 Eco boost 3.5 is towing it, brakes are not a concern.

I want a clean pure build. No t top, bimini, clean console no frills. The search commences for a donor hull and I also would appreciate any reccos on shops that do great restoration work at fair prices.

Thanks for any advice and look forward to being back in a SeaCraft!

[wattaway2]

Fastest 20’ Seacraft ever? Don’t think a 150 or 175 will do it ! But I have a 300 Etec G1 on my 23 and am very happy with it . May want to look at a 200 ho as I think the 150,175&200 all share the same block and weight.
Your F150 should pull it with ease -a buddy has one and pulls a 23 mako without any issues. But don’t rule out brakes if your doing the long distance hauling, could save your ass unexpectedly.as it takes up the boat and trailer weight push . Yes it’s more cost and one more thing to deal with but with S FLA. drivers it’s helped more then several times. There’s so real idiots from all over the world down here!

[pelican]

My thoughts :

No ETEC ! There’s a reason BRP quit producing them - that’s all I’m gonna say on that subject .
You want a 4 stroke - either Yamaha or Suzuki . Suzuki motors suffered from serious corrosion problems - that situation has been solved ! The lower hp models are basically bulletproof, like yamahas .Suzuki’,seen problems with 350’s and their duo prop lowers, actually an updated gear case for them. Seen various powerhead problems as well.

Raising the transom to 25” is the way to go.no bracket ! Bracket offsets weight and will make the boat squirrelly , it’s all about weight my friend. Simple physics , you extend that weight further aft and it increases - leverage ….

Raising the deck is the smart play - do away with the original scuppers and either run the scuppers thru the hull side or out the transom.you don’t want wet feet all day right .

Not a fan of jackplates, mount the motor to the transom and use the “bulkhead” style hydraulic hoses , much cleaner install.rigging tube for the motor - wire harness, battery cabling and fuel lines heaped together looks terrible.

Trailer - tandem axle with brakes is the way to go - get torsion axles and disc brakes. Use “v guides” instead of the pvc bow rest piece - you’ll thank me for that . If you’re really smart , you’ll get a trailer with polyurethane rollers, that trailer will last longer,due to the fact you’re not sinking it to launch the boat.

Trying to find a shop to do this kind of work isn’t easy - it’s not cheap.old saying :
“Good work isn’t cheap and cheap work isn’t good” remember that. Attempting to do this yourself is a tough option , you’ll need a dry place to work in.I’ve seen some rough, really rough work done by owners, just seen one a few weeks ago when I was in the keys for a vacation - seen an old 20 come into John pennenkamp park in key largo. I spoke briefly with the owners wife, my wife pointed out things she seen and I laughed ! Told her she’s been with me way too long.

Good luck on your search and your RESTORATION…

[pjzabo]

Awesome replies this is good stuff guys and thank you. I think you said what I am inclined to agree with but also concerns me some about the "right" way to go. My 18SF had an older Suzi 140 with a new powerhead and I dealt with the corrosion issues you bring up. The ETEC scares the crap out of me and I would love to base the build around a digital Yamaha 200. That's 489 lbs or 56 lbs more than the ETEC hanging on the transom, we think that is ok? Now raising the deck - I'm all for being dry and fixing the scupper mess once and for all but F R E E B O A R D!! I'm coming from a 24 McKee that had that in spades. Stock deck height freeboard in the 18SF was marginal, raising deck makes it worse. And YES - I will pay for quality work because I want it done right but if the price escalates too high it is tempting to just factory order a new Jones Brothers 20 Cape Fisherman. It's the only new boat that interests me - a spiritual successor to the Potter SeaCrafts

[hillcharl]

This all just my opinion. I had a 1989 SF20 with a 200 Evinrude FICHT on it for about 10 years. The engine was just under 500 lbs I believe. I've been thinking about what I would change since I sold it 8 years ago.

What year range are you looking for? Does it have to be a Potter hull? With the amount of potential work to get it the way you want it, it probably doesn't matter.

How much work do you want to do to the hull? I would work on making the boat lighter, stronger and better balanced for whatever engine you decide on. If done correctly you wouldn't have to raise the deck and could keep your freeboard the same. The SF20 really is more of a bayboat than a deep sea boat. You could raise the freeboard, there is a builder that did that on tht and it turned out very well. But it probably is expensive.

That said, the 1982 and younger SF20s are 8" longer @ 20-4, have a 25" transom and the console is a little more forward than 1981 and younger hulls. This helps a little with the heavier motors. You still will need to move the fuel tank forward some. The CG post is very helpful with that.

I wouldn't go more than a 200hp engine because of weight. If you want to really push it, check out websites like scream and fly.

Trim tabs wouldn't hurt either.

I agree with the earlier post, double axle trailer with brakes is the way to go. Some people like bunks and some like rollers. If you do bunks, you can line them up under the stringers.

Also stated earlier, no bracket and no jackplate for reasons already mentioned by pelican.

Just my 2 cents. I have to live vicariously through everyone's rebuilds until I get another 20 and do it myself. Looking forward to see whatever you decide to do!

[pjzabo]

Thanks for the reply, the experience with my 18SF and building that lines up with the reccos. I mean all I hear is that the Potter hulls are better made that's what points me in that direction not any desire to say I own a potter. I did move the console forward some in my 18SF when I bolted the Suzuki 140HP on the new 25" transom. It was a sympathetic resto on a clean 1976 that had good floors and even decent hatches. New gas tank, new raised transom, all new wiring and two batteries, leaning post, bilge pumps etc I wouldn't go more than 200 either, was kinda kidding about building the fastest one, just want a quick boat within reason but it has to be balanced. Talking to a resto place on budget today to get a feel. As I mentioned, I love what Johnson Brothers are building but they nickle and dime you on everything. But I guess quality costs $$$