#1
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Re-sealing hatches
Looking to seal up my deck hatches but wanted to see how these hatches functioned originally.
My plan is to remove the 2 captains chairs, replace with a leaning post and a fiberglass bait tank right behind it (above deck), epoxy and gelcoat the holes, screw down the forward hatch and seal the edges with Life Caulk. As for the rear hatch, was this made to be secured or made to be opened at will? As you can see from the pictures, if I don't seal the rear hatch saltwater will find its way to leak on top of the aluminum fuel tank. I just dont like how I won't have access to my bilge pumps and float switches as well as not being able to visually see my bilge for water/issues. What have you all done? Thanks in advance. |
#2
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I have similar questions about the original hatches. My originals are long gone and replaced with starboard, which is ok, but they don't seal very well. I too just replaced my tank and would prefer to limit water intrusion, but allow access to batteries, seacock, etc.
Surely someone on here has been down this road before. Any input would be greatly appreciated. |
#3
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Shy of completely sealing it up , you will need to do some some configurations.
I hate water in the bilge period. So I re-enforced the hatch cover itself. Then built a gutter system to channel the water to two drains each aft corner. The drains were then connected too my self bails out the transom. The hatch was hinged too the splashwell. (See attached pictures). All this was done prior to adding my bracket project. I used ¾" PVC cut in half length wise.. PS: Starboard is useless
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1978 23' Superfish/Potter Bracket 250HP -------- as "Americans" you have the right to ...... "LIFE, LIBERTY and the PURSUIT of a Classic SeaCraft" -capt_chuck |
#4
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Would agree that a gutter setup is the way to go as seems you may want quick/ better access to bilge for various reasons.
Side note : used to use life caulk all the time as good product but does yellow in the sun. Have found that 3m 4000 UV seems to stay white. Also an idea I liked recently shared was to set a piece of heavier mono (100# ?) with a loop in the ends in the hatch groove before you seal it . Assuming you can make the loop just accesible to grab with a small pick, can make getting the hatch open much easier when the time comes. Haven’t done this yet but will try on next opportunity. |
#5
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Quote:
Did you glass the pvc to the deck? Any chance you have close up photos you can share please? |
#6
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Cut the pvc too fit. Using 1" strip of ¼" pvc flat board glued together to form a lip of the gutter. Then ruffed up the glass under the deck first. Then used two part epoxy glue (Fasco) clamped in place. Sorry , I don"t have anymore pictures. Boat was converted to a full transom with a bracket and sold.
__________________
1978 23' Superfish/Potter Bracket 250HP -------- as "Americans" you have the right to ...... "LIFE, LIBERTY and the PURSUIT of a Classic SeaCraft" -capt_chuck |
#7
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Yes, that is just about exactly what I would like to build myself. Other boats I've owned had gutters w drains and they make way more sense than what I have now. I'm thinking none of mine is original anymore and done poorly.
For better or worse, the deck will need to be redone at some point in the not so distant future, so I will redesign the hatch gutters at that time. I was hoping to seal up what I have for the short term. Thanks for the pictures. |
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