![]() |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
JohnR,Thats eXactly what I was gonna do.Starboard,But the problems of sealing for water was My big problem.Down here We can have beautiful No cloud Day then Swoosh ! 4's of rain,Didn't want a short.I eventually had one made out of glass,molded in a place for the ss sliders for plexi.then trimed w/1/2 starboard.
Flush mounted everything.Came out prtty Nice.Was gonna splash Her Yesterday,Weather called for a cold front????? Hitting a NorthBound low. RAIN & Heavy ThunderBumpers.Well it turned out Beautiful !$#&^()*%#@#,Next Week I'll try again. I also painted the Bright glass w/a 3 part primer matched the deck color(Matterhorn) It dryed to a flay color No Glare.Self sealed. http://www.frenzie.com/1983_seacraft_master_angler.htm You can go down to Inst. Panel. Scream'n Reels' [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img]
__________________
http://www.frenzie.com/frenzielogoline.GIF www.frenzie.com http://www.frenzie.com/custom.htm "Classic SeaCraft" Lures 1983_seacraft_master_angler.]htm My wife and I had words, But I didn't get to use mine."?" |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Skip,
If you do it yourself, plan on about 100 hours of work. The cost for materials is under $1000.00 and the satisfaction of doing yourself like Lt. Dan and me. Do use one of the new foam or corecell type coring materials rather than wood. I love my new boat. The ride with the bracket is even better and 3 can fish in the stern now.
__________________
Capt. Brian |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
The price break down for rebuilding my Mako 21 (transom, knee braces, @ floor from leaning post back)
Tools (that I didn't have before) - $250 Grinding disks & sandpaper - $250 Marine Plywood - $200 Fiberglass (I use fancy stuff) - $400 Epoxy resin - $1000 klegecell/NIDA core material - $400 Gelcoat - $150 Transom bracket - $2500 I'd bet that I'm missing something too, but the bottom line is that its an expensive job. You can do it cheaper, but it depends of what type of materials you use. [ September 30, 2003, 04:31 PM: Message edited by: RingLeader ] |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I just finished installing a transom for an IO. Hopefully you have, or can borrow a lot of the tools needed. You will definitely need the following tools:
o 4 - 4/1/2" grinder ( I like Makita ) new $70 @ Home Depot ( I don't know how I lived w/out one ) o Porter Cable D/A sander ( I bought mine used for $65 - it works great! - best new tool I own!) o A circular saw and a sawzall - all EZ to borrow o Sand paper and grinding pads - get at an auto body supply store - the cheapest place I've found - use 3M stuff if possible. The D/A will use adhesive paper. o Crowbar, real long screw drivers, 'Wonderbar' I used (2) pcs of 3/4" AC plywood laminated together - Cheap and good ! The pros swear by plywood ! All the glass and resin etc I bought at a fiberglass supply store. I have not used any epoxy, nor do I feel I should have. If poly is done right, it will last. There's a lot of strong opinion around this - that's mine. As long as thru hulls and the like are 100% water proof, there will be no problem ( thru hulls are an area that I would either epoxy fill, or install w/ epxoy as a bedding ). Once you re-do a transom, you appreciate the idea of keeping water OUT forever !!!!!! I'm on a budget for my project and I have not skimped any corners - it's all being done right -actually better than any similar professional job I've seen ( because I go through the extra effort ). I have never done anything like this although I have a decent working knowledge of fiberglass ( I've read a lot ) and have repaired odds and ends over time. It's totally do-able. It's SHIT work, there's no doubt. But, you will save a lot of $$$ doing it yourself and if you get satisfaction out of doing your own work, you'll get that too. It's like anything that's difficult - It sucks, you 'just do it', then it's done. After a few weeks, you'll forget how much planning and work you did and you'll have a new transom. Good luck ! Alan |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Hey Guys! I appreciate all the input. I am doing all the prep work for sure and may shop out the new glasswork and installation of the new bracket. Working outside in north jersey on fiberglass is not fun not to mention the falling leaves etc. I worked on the boat last winter in my driveway and had a winter wonderland in and on my boat. Than came the spring with the nonstop rain and dingle berrys falling out of the trees and staining my topsides and deck. Oh for a large garage to hide in and play with the toys. Hanging that yamaha from a tree or a frame is a gamble at best. Thanks for the help.
|
#16
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Skip,
I know what you speak. I had the same deal, and when the weather turned, the bugs came out. [img]images/icons/mad.gif[/img] I need Pipedream's shop. [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img]
__________________
http://lecharters.com '76 23 SC CC I/O '86 20 Aquasport 200 '98 15 Boaton Whaler Dauntless There's more but w/e |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
whoa is me .... similar issues .... I think we need to find a nice shed/building with heat !!!!! Boat almost blew away today [img]images/icons/rolleyes.gif[/img] [img]images/icons/shocked.gif[/img] [img]images/icons/rolleyes.gif[/img]
|
![]() |
|
|