hyd. steering help

[Caymanboy]

depending on how mechanically inclind you are, first of all, the zirc fitting greases only the pivot point, has nothing to do with the steering arm or tube, do you need to replace the tube? Take a wire tube brush and clean out the tube, if you need to replace the tube, cut it half in the middle, us a cut off wheel, cut a section out then bang it out from the inside out, when putting it all back together use yamaha marine grease, on the aluminum elbos to to the stainless rod use Tef Gel, going to need alot of heat, just keep the transom protected, wet rag, keep the heat centralized, use a acetalyn torch, not a can, be carefull, heat the bracket, not the tube or rod.Also use a good freeing lubricant like blaster or something, orrrrr open up the check book!!!!

[Caymanboy]

from the pictures the tube doesn't look to bad.

[Caymanboy]

All of that was to remove the tube, to remove the rod from the tube, heat the tube, alot!!!!! Bang it back and forth, eventually it will move, lots of hot, hot heat!!!!!and pentrating lubricant, even when it is hot, carefull of flame ups.

[BillPutney]

I'm trying to remove the rod from the tube currently.

[BillPutney]

what about removing the grease fittings and spraying in a penetrant. I was a little cautious about heating the as I was not sure what it was made from .

[Bushwacker]

I believe the tube is pressed in to the motor section of the bracket, so you have to heat what it's pressed into. Heating the tube itself will only make it tighter! That tube also carries the weight of the motor, so supporting the weight of the motor to take the load off the tube should also make it easier to remove. . . also try to find some Kroil, it could make a difference!

[hermco]

The job is made a lot easier if you pull the motor. I have done several and they are no fun.

[BillPutney]

okay an update. I know I will catch some grief but here goes.I could never get the stainless shaft that passes thru the tilt tube to break free,heat, beating with a large hammer and eventually a sledge hammer to no avail,so I ended up putting the attachment arms back on and leaving enough slack so that they rotate freely when the engine is tilted.I,ve run the boat and it works find and there is no binding when tilting the motor,The way I figure , it has been operating fine when it was in a bind and making the popping sound when tilted , and now with this setup I can move either side with my bear hands and there is no slop or play that I can detect.I know it will not meet the purists standards but it works for me .Total cost to repair with saw blades, bolts,washers and lubricants/penetrants,and 3 drill bits $18.00 .