New Member, New Seacraft 18, lot's of problems!!!!

[hermco]

IMHO the core does not need to be a solid piece. The fiberglass is the strength. the core is stiffness. Todays boats use a foam core typically 8 lb. density that you can break with your bare hands. Intrepid has been using it for over 20 years. The reason plywood was used originally is thats all they had as foam core was not known.

[muddywater]

Yeah, don't underestimate that Potter putty stuff. After cutting the whole inner liner out the back and leaving half of the baitwell, I attached a hoist to the baitwell bottom half and picked the whole boat off the trailer by the baitwell with nothing holding it except that putty stuff. With the whole boat hanging in the air from nothing but the baitwell bottom, I eventually pried it off with a crowbar.

[Ryank]

Ive always wondered at the integrity of these tansom jobs performed from the outside. Is it as strong ? The guy who did mine tansom said to never cut the transom skin off.

[Fr. Frank]

Ive always wondered at the integrity of these tansom jobs performed from the outside. Is it as strong ? The guy who did mine tansom said to never cut the transom skin off.

Yes, it's just as strong. the difficulty in doing this from the outside is in faring the transom to hull transition, especially when you have no edge with which to work. You will have that difficulty, it appears from the pictures.

Now is also a great time to raise the transom to either 25" or 30", depending on what you plan on for power. If you're going used motor, do 25". If you're going new, make it 30".

If you're planning on a 4 stroke 115 hp or greater, 2 stroke 150 or greater, or an Optimax 90hp or greater, now's a good time to raise the deck 2" as well, to accommodate the extra weight and keep a dry deck..

[uncleboo]

Amen! When the time comes, I will be doing this as well. With the DF140, I have to keep the plugs in the splashwell bulkhead unless underway. I'll be following your progress.

[MakoMike19]

some fresh carnage. Plan is to build up the transom from the outside-in. That way I can tie into the inside of the side-walls and not worry about the fairing. Also, glassing upside down on the bottom would be near impossible. (vacuum bagging would be about the only way)





nope, i didn't cut the tops of the stringers off. Not sure why they are missing. at least the foam is dry




I'm leaving the inner skin on until I get some supports across the back so the sides don't bow out.

Also, that livewell was a pain! And built like a freakin tank! Some of the glass was almost a half inch thick.

The center stringer is toast, so the entire floor will be coming up later. Guess they forgot a little glass here:

[MakoMike19]

had a little free time today, made up a small support for the keel and the sides. The one just slides on for easy removal 8)

[CaptSeaCraft]

WOW and thank you for the pictures........I now know what it looks like under the aft deck and the top off the boat.
I will follow this rebuild closely!

[MakoMike19]

Got some grinding done today, GRIND GRIND GRIND. Mostly done, need to get the 2 inch out to touch up corners and edges, and remove the gel coat.





In other news, found some water intrusion under 2 layers of glass that seeped in from the stringer. Was grinding away and saw some black glass, so out it came. Was still small amounts of water underneath. The shaded area is where I found it.




Also finished the rear mold and cut out a transom pattern.

[MakoMike19]

So far so good, only a few touchups to grind out. The last layer was the only one to be a pain with a couple air pockets.