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#11
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I`m building a Hedonism resort for them. Bugz check in, but they dont check out.
Bud, get the launch. |
#12
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Don't worry we'll leave the light on for ya!
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#13
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Wow thanks for the responses! I though you guys had given up on me.
The boat is a Sea Hunt BX22 with a F150 stroke so its not rated for maximum HP which I believe is 200 or 250 HP. As you can see in the video the thru hull exit is right at the boot stripe which depending on where someone is standing may or may not be underwater. There is not much elevation difference between the existing thru hull and the existing horizontal scupper. Bottom line is there is nothing in that configuration I wish to reuse. It will be used to augment my scupper modification. This is what a figured out and what someone else told me - Basically horizontal scuppers (the kind that I have only work at their FULL capacity when the water level is about the top lip, which is a lot of water in my case. However vertical scuppers always work at the full capacity as long as the lip is below the draining water which is always the case. Its all about water levels and equilibrium. I probably have 3 inches between my deck and the water level outside the boat. But as long as i have some distance there, the water will still drain with vertical scuppers. I dont mind wet feet and get that now anyway. water can come in and water can go, but when I go (hit the throttle) I want the water gone and crud with it. So after looking at tons of 90 degree vertical scuppers, none are going to work since I am hampered by clearance underneath where the scupper would go. Right now I am sizing out pvc for some sort of the custom fit. The discharge would be a new thrull hull on the bottom of the boat. I am thinking of something liek this. The L piece on the right but I got to figure a way to keep it snug with the deck and I wish the wall thickness was a little better. ![]() |
#14
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Well water does always seek level. Have you thought about plumbing extra drains with check valves to the motorwell and adding drains to the transom at the motorwell and leaving your current configuration intact. If the depth of the inside of the motorwell and floor make sense I'd be leaning that direction myself. Then again without standing in your boat in the water and with a tape measurer I could be completely wrong.
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Thank goodness that in the scheme of things you are broke, powerlesss and inconsequential, because with the shortsighted alternatives and idealogy you have you'd be much worse than those you complain about. |
#15
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Ok guys. Found something today at HD that may work. I will shave the lip down to the taper.
![]() ![]() looking from the center of the boat to the starboard side at the non working horizontal scupper: ![]() Same scupper looking aft. ![]() The new drain will go directly under the existing drain: ![]() The pad at the stern where the new thru hull will go: ![]() |
#16
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#17
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^ I ended up not using the sink drain kit. The fittings in my last post are schedule 40 PVC. What do you think?
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#18
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Sandy, if your going to be a serious writer you must play nice for the first two e- books, poems, articles...
![]() LT, I have no problem with the pvc or the bigger diameter; but why not stick with you're initial thought and go straight out the side instead of running tube aft to the old drain. After seeing your viddy and realizing your scuppers drained out the side i realized you simply have too many turns in the plumbing; and if the knuckleheads at sea hunt used sealant, then that much more flow loss can be expected. Assuming you can reach both ends (I know it's a stretch) plug old holes and have real scuppers (like Sandy's previously mentioned ovals) just fore of the old that shoots straight out.
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there's no such thing as normal anymore... Last edited by McGillicuddy; 08-28-2012 at 12:16 AM. |
#19
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No crap=everyone comes home. The kinder GFS I`ve been rightly called Kevorkian. |
#20
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The cutting has begun. Pics to follow
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