Trailers for SC 23' - Page 3

htillman · #21 01-16-2010, 11:39 PM

I run Kodiak disk brakes with a 2 5/16" ball on one trailer and a 2" ball on a trailer with drum brakes. The disks brakes are better, the larger ball and disks seems to work better with that application - heavy duty galvanized trailer.

Snookerd · #22 01-16-2010, 11:50 PM

If I recall correctly, we had a good thread going on this topic a few years back. I have a Rolls Axle Trailer, with a 6K capacity. I remember Capt Chuck saying that 7K should be the choice. So go 7K if there is a choice

Blue197320 · #23 01-17-2010, 12:05 AM

really? i searched for 23 trailer set up 2 years back but i only got this one. does any one know where it might be??
my trailer is supposedly rated 6500 pounds. a new one is not in my budget right now so ill have to fix this one up. like i said its galvanized I beam with no rust on the major structure of it. it needs at least 1 axle and maybe springs. it needs tires for sure and im going to do the bearings anyway. im trying to learn all i can about brakes and such.

et23, do you have the kodiaks using a surge brake actuator coupler? how does it feel when your towing it? since mine right now is just sliding freely, it slams really hard when i stop or move forward.

Capt Chuck · #24 01-17-2010, 11:12 AM

Evan
Try these Threads. Good info and pictures

Bunk or Roller

Bunk Replacement

Buying a Trailer

Blue197320 · #25 01-17-2010, 12:14 PM

thanks capt.

htillman · #26 01-17-2010, 01:52 PM

I like the actuator and setup with Kodiak brakes. It sounds like your actuator is ok and is trying to work. Install brakes and hook everything up, you may have to rebuild the actuator (I did). A good place to get parts is Steelco (Sportsmans) trailer. I do not know about there pricing as I took my trailer down there and had everything matched up. If you have a good trailer place near you that may be a good place to visit.

Bushwacker · #27 01-17-2010, 02:00 PM

When you get to the point of hooking up the brakes, be sure to use DOT 5 Silicone Brake Fluid! It's more expensive than the regular DOT 3 stuff, but it won't absorb moisture
like DOT 3 does, which is a big deal in South Florida! With DOT 5, you'll never have to do anything more to the hydraulic part of the system; with DOT 3, it should be flushed annually to prevent corrosion in the system.

Blue197320 · #28 01-17-2010, 03:52 PM

im going to put a new actuator on it when i re-do the brakes. its above the tongue. im going to get one thats in line with the tongue. the way it is now there is too much load on the front axle. i have my tow and stow hitch all the way up but its still too low.

Snookerd · #29 01-18-2010, 05:46 PM

Quote:

Evan
Try these Threads. Good info and pictures

Bunk or Roller

Bunk Replacement

Buying a Trailer

Chuck-
The last link is the exact thread I was remembering. As we always say....there is some good chit in those old threads.

Blue197320 · #30 01-20-2010, 10:54 AM

you guys have been so helpful with all my trailer questions. please bare with me as i have a few more. these are regarding bunks. one trailer shop here quoted me $80 each for new bunks 3"x6"x10' that are carpeted already. i was thinkin for alot less i can just go to homedepot or a lumber yard and get sone boards in the dimensions that i need and carpet them myself. is a 4x6 enough to support the portion of the 23 that sticks out past the trailer frame? or could i even step up to 2 2x8's bolted together for each side?? my bunk mounts are welded on and a 3.5" board fits in there. now for the front, i was thinking of using the forward v-bunks and maybe one of those v-shpaed pvc guides? i need to get the boat back over here so i can take some pictures of the trailer.