A little lot of Karma. or re birth of a 20

[bly]

Originally Posted by Seacraft84

Yeah just polyester resin and 1708 is all I have used on my last two boats. Used epoxy for fillers and what not.
I believe its 20" on 20sf and 24" on MA. We were able to pull the cap up alittle and get some more freeboard. I had raised my floor a total of 5" from top of factory to top of new floor and was about to pull the cap up another 1" so I still have 20" at the stern. Your right about the liner for the back. Definatly will feel alot wider.
I kinda wish I would have splurged and maybe done a composite transom on my last MA cause 30-40lbs in the rear of these boats is actually alot.

Okume is mostly a certified void free water proof glue mahogany plywood and the polyester resin will not have a very good bond because of the natural oils in this wood and teak also. There are some boat builders in North carolina doing those big plywood carolina flair jig boats with a skin of vinylester resin and glass. But that is still controversial . None would ever think of using polyester resin. Most still use epoxy and nothing less. All use epoxy still to bond one piece of wood to another piece of wood.
MA is one of those higher caps right. what year did they start with the higher cap? If I have 18 then that is good. I raised the floor 2 inches mostly because this boat will be fished hard sometimes looking for big tuna. That is why he wanted a full transom and a bracket to make the boat less scary when waves can splash against the transom while fighting a big tuna. His other boat is a big! center console. A 39 sea vee.

[Joe R]

... maybe he could use the big boat as a mother ship and tow the 20 out to the canyons .. all joking aside, looks great, thats going to be some custom rig when done...Bruce and I may take a ride over to see it first hand some time today if you dont mind....

Joe R.
20ft Classic SeaCraft
Susie II

[ian_upton]

Bly - good to see you hear. I rarely participate on this board because I have a Bertram20 project, not a Seacraft, but the restorations here are outstanding.

I exclusively used Coosa board on my Bertram for transom and sole replacement.

One thing I found I needed to do was clean the coosa very well or lightly scuff sand then clean with solvent and put a nice flood coat of resin to make sure I got a good bond.

Curious if you have any tips on proper preparation. I also used vinyl ester exclusively, although next time I think I will save some cash and only use vinyl for secondary bonding and not for panel layups.

Looking forward to the progress.

I think I posted this link before, but here is a link to me stalled project.

http://simplifying.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=1028

[bly]

Originally Posted by ian_upton

Bly - good to see you hear. I rarely participate on this board because I have a Bertram20 project, not a Seacraft, but the restorations here are outstanding.

I exclusively used Coosa board on my Bertram for transom and sole replacement.

One thing I found I needed to do was clean the coosa very well or lightly scuff sand then clean with solvent and put a nice flood coat of resin to make sure I got a good bond.

Curious if you have any tips on proper preparation. I also used vinyl ester exclusively, although next time I think I will save some cash and only use vinyl for secondary bonding and not for panel layups.

Looking forward to the progress.

I think I posted this link before, but here is a link to me stalled project.

http://simplifying.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=1028

I did do some test even tho my supplier had a lot of hands on experience before being talked into opening a small whole sale supply shop. I was also told by others that some of the best new england old school custom boat builders were incorporating his use and techniques into their builds of coosa and penske board. Many of them have molds to very pretty new england lobster style boats. were building the hull in glass and almost everything else in plywood with epoxy. Now many switching away from wood. The wood process does need a hot coat because it is very pourus and if you lay up the glass normally and just wet out the wood with normal layup resin it will be soaked into the wood pours and possibly cause a dry layup under the first layer. Most that use epoxy, use only a standard west system that is so thick that the primary epoxy bonding is doing most of the work. I use a thin epoxy and thicken mine when needed for any use. On my penske coosa board I have been using vinylester resin because of its superior properties compared to GP polyester resin. For less then $10 dollars a gallon more then GP. No I do not buy it in gallon cans. So it pays in my thoughts for the small increase. On the wet out coat.or hot coat. and letting that dry first and sepparately? It is not needed like wood. A fact is that No boat builders that use normal low density divinycel foam for cores do a hot coat. that foam is very pourus also. penske coosa is not pourus. the resin will not be absorbed into the board and cause a dry coat underneath. It can only absorb less then 5% of its weight in liquid in the best situation because of the uniformity density. I will reiterate one more time that the hot coat is so your resin does not run out of the glass into the wood and cause a later delamination of the glass because of lack of resin directly under it. It wont happen with penske coosa. I see no reason not to use polyester resin if you want. Me I will stay with vinylester resin. I may try some here and there on a console type work only for personal testing incase vinylester resin was not available or rose in cost? On prep the dust is a pain in the arse and I usually cut my board in front of a high speed fan in front of the open garage door. Or i put the horses outside when nice and use the wind to blow the dust away from me. Then I usually blow the dust off the board before using or bringing back in. That is my prep. Ian I just re reviewed your progress. . Great work you did. I never realized the 20 bertrams had a curved transom and that small pie sliced bumpout for the out drive. What a pain huh.

[ian_upton]

Clarification on my part... I never let the coat of resin cure. I found that by flooding the coosa with resin then laying down the 1708 it was easier to get complete wetout. I also found that the surface of the coosa would have the occasional area of bubbles or what might be called porosity that I wanted to make sure was completely filled.

Stuff does itch though. That's for sure!

Ian.

[bly]

Originally Posted by ian_upton

Clarification on my part... I never let the coat of resin cure. I found that by flooding the coosa with resin then laying down the 1708 it was easier to get complete wetout. I also found that the surface of the coosa would have the occasional area of bubbles or what might be called porosity that I wanted to make sure was completely filled.

Stuff does itch though. That's for sure!

Ian.

And beautiful work for a hobby. Very professional and researched.. What stage are you in now on the bertram? There is a 20 bertram CC all done over with a bracket that I have seen in my travels towing my boat to NC andf back a few times. What a beautiful little CC it is! I always loved the bertram lines . Must be close since the last post months ago. I was getting a bit confused? is the boat still in michigan or Jakarta Indi.? I know you do work over there right. Good luck Ian on hitting the finish line. sometimes the last 10% never seems to go fast enough? Why?Jay

[ian_upton]

Thanks for the compliments, but I did the easy stuff. The real skill is Ryan at RCS Yachtrefinishers. He is one who will make the boat look amazing.

I moved to Jakarta for work and will be here for about 3 years minus the 4 months I have already been here.

I am really struggling with what to do for engine package. I keep going back and forth about buying a new package now and avoiing the catalytic converters or waiting until I get back an have something new off the shelf.

I made a comment to my wife the other day that if whe was going to buy a hand knotted persian rug that I was going to buy a diesel engine package. Her comment was "You're going to get a diesel anyway..." Although a Volvo D3-200 package would be pretty slick, I'm not sure it's worth the price of admission.

Keep the pictures flowing... no fiberglass for me to grind here.

Ian.

[workinpr0gress]

Bly........................how's that baby coming along?

[bly]

Originally Posted by workinpr0gress

Bly........................how's that baby coming along?

The new transom . The new transom is all made with double penske and stitched glass with vinylester resin and gelcoat.. I made it on a super flat melamine mold table I have. The I popped the bracket out of the mold? I actually floated it out of the mold with water from a hose and a few wooden wedges. Most of the fuel tank stringer area is done and changed. along with the fuel tank base. Oh I have the new aluminum 74 gal fuel tank from S&P painted with epoxy and pigment. Rolled thick and brush tipped. No coal tar epoxy. The real stuff. I have been taking pictures just too tired to post and still getting used to my new mac pro from my old mac lap top. I will try to post pictures soon. I am almost trying not to post so I do not get on too many others nerves here. I am a bit anal in rebuilds and I do not believe aluminum tanks should be foamed in. So I guess I am just trying not to come on too strong here between my aversion to wood and now foaming in tank taboo. Sorry bruce. for not posting more pictures. I have them. I know I will be a target because of my anal boat building theories

[gofastsandman]

Originally Posted by bly

I am almost trying not to post so I do not get on too many others nerves here. I am a bit anal in rebuilds and I do not believe aluminum tanks should be foamed in. So I guess I am just trying not to come on too strong here between my aversion to wood and now foaming in tank taboo. Sorry bruce. for not posting more pictures. I have them. I know I will be a target because of my anal boat building theories

Fiddlestix!!!

Bly, you will be yet another wonderful resource here.

When I first found my guest house here, Todd`sLures said what good is knowledge if you don`t share it. Indeed.

Bushwacker is proud of the fact that his balsa is still going strong. He is quite savvy and that is why it has lasted. When his friends were redoing the transom on their old 21 race boat, they used Coosa and epoxy. Wonder who had a hand in that?

I can`t remember seeing anyone foam in a tank either. Did you? Maybe I missed something.

Some folks have a plywood budget, and some folks don`t have a budget.

All are welcome here, as evidenced by my love of a {shhhh} Tracker. Oh, the horror.

What products do you prefer over coal tar?

See, I`m learning already.

Cheers,
Sandy