Finally doing something to my Seacraft

[Bushwacker]

One of the main benefits of the bracket is eliminating the open transom, which is a safety issue if you spend much time offshore. The transom on a 20 isn't all that hard to climb over anyway. I would at least put a door on it rather than leave it open.

BTW, the Seamark bracket was designed by Bill Potter for SeaCrafts, but is now being built by Don Herman.

[FossilMan]

Thanks. I like the looks of that door. With a scuba tank on my back, a door would make it easier and keep from banging and scratching the heck out of everything trying to get over the transom.
I'm close to finally splashing the boat. Whoever fixed the transom, didn't make it a full 25 inches...it's 23 inches. I had to make new mounting holes to get the AV plate an inch above the keel...and I'm at the last hole on the motor. That's as high as I can get it right now.
I'm using a temporary tank that is in the forward part of the tank coffin with the battery. I'll see how it sits with the weight there and use that as a reference point. I'll make a bracket during the break in then try it out to see how it handles with some 5 gallon pails to replicate the weight of a full tank of fuel. (the temporary is only 15 gallons) Hopefully it will work out. I like the look of the bracket and closed transom.

[Bushwacker]

Originally Posted by FossilMan

Thanks. I like the looks of that door. With a scuba tank on my back, a door would make it easier and keep from banging and scratching the heck out of everything trying to get over the transom. . . .

If you're using a modern BC with the integral scuba tank mount and weight pockets, I've found it easier to just take off the whole works in the water and have someone in the boat hoist the whole tank/vest/weight belt assembly into the boat. Although I have a ladder, I really don't even need it to get on the swim platform w/o the tank. I just sit on platform to remove fins, and then climbing over a ~1' high transom is no big a deal. I would route all the rigging down thru the transom like Don Herman does however, as it makes for a much neater looking installation. (See picture below.)

I did consider building in a hinged door where the engine cutout was, but decided it just added needless complexity and expense, so went with a solid transom instead.

[sidelock]

Originally Posted by FossilMan

Thanks. I like the looks of that door. With a scuba tank on my back, a door would make it easier and keep from banging and scratching the heck out of everything trying to get over the transom.
I'm close to finally splashing the boat. Whoever fixed the transom, didn't make it a full 25 inches...it's 23 inches. I had to make new mounting holes to get the AV plate an inch above the keel...and I'm at the last hole on the motor. That's as high as I can get it right now.
I'm using a temporary tank that is in the forward part of the tank coffin with the battery. I'll see how it sits with the weight there and use that as a reference point. I'll make a bracket during the break in then try it out to see how it handles with some 5 gallon pails to replicate the weight of a full tank of fuel. (the temporary is only 15 gallons) Hopefully it will work out. I like the look of the bracket and closed transom.

Are u sure you want the battery near the fuel tank in the same compartment ?

[gofastsandman]

Originally Posted by FossilMan

...these come to me while I am welding. has anyone left the transom open and put in a door? It would facilitate getting back into the boat from the platform....

Hard to get the strength there. Bushwacker is far smarter than I, or I would have a SeaFari.
I love a cc, but he makes a lotta bug/swimming sense.


Cheers,
GFS

[FossilMan]

Thanks for the input. More points to ponder. That transom door will probably end up being a PITA to make properly and it will also screw up any potential storage in the transom. I've added these points to my notes. Thanks guys.