Jumping in with Both Feet on a 20 Seafari

[cdavisdb]

Plenty of thickness on that teak, take it to a wood shop, have them plane it, varnish and you will have one snazy boat. I did that area of my 20 with teak strips that needed a lot of clean up and it came out fabulous.

[SailorChlud]

Bushwacker:

I agree on the name - it is designed to reflect her condition when I got it - and not after it is reborn. Sometime in the past, she was called "The Old Buzzard" by a previous owner. Not sure what to make of that handle, either.

[SailorChlud]

The glass guy finished his part, and here are a few before and after shots:

[SailorChlud]

OOPS - Do not know what happened

[SailorChlud]

Last one before the cover goes on for 3 months.

[Dogbomb]

Looks better than new!
Sorry about the cover for 3 months thing...

[SailorChlud]

A little warmer this week in Jersey, so I ran down to the lumberyard and picked up some marine plywood for the bulkheads. Here they are with the rough cut done. Thankfully the prior owner saved the originals for a template. Note the close up of the old capacity sticker...will be ordering a new one today.

[Bushwacker]

Very interesting . . . I'm sure your boat is a '72 due to dash configuration and gunnel fixtures, but it might be a later model than mine, as the sticker on mine was located on port side of cockpit, just aft of the bulkhead. I believe the stickers on later models was located below helm like yours. FYI, the numbers on my sticker are: SN 2268, 170 HP (some were sold with twin 85 hp Mercs), max load of 6 Persons or 1500 lbs. I'm curious what your SN is, if it's legible?

Also, that upper right notch on stbd bulkhead is for running wiring from IP to back of boat. Although I have the original screen that attaches to front hatch with velcro, and a screen on inside of cabin door, the first time I slept aboard the boat, I discovered that skeeters could get into the cabin through that notch! Jeanne Moesly told me they discovered the same thing the first time they anchored out in the Shark river in the 'Glades in their Seafari! So if you intend to use the boat for it's designed purpose, best to seal up that area with some foam sealant once you finish rigging it! Those bulkheads should look nice once they're stained and varnished!

When you install the bulkheads, you'll find that those screws at the bottom are hard to keep tight if you use the OEM sheet metal screws. I epoxied some brass expanding wedge anchors used for mounting hurricane shutters on wood houses that take 1/4-20 machine screws into the fiberglass. With fender washers under the screw heads and a little blue locktite on the threads, they work real well!

[SailorChlud]

Bushwacker -

Great idea on the anchors for the bulkheads - I was kind of worried about the integrity of the old wood under the floor that the sheet metal screws bite into.

I was planning to fill the old holes with epoxy, then drill new pilot holes, but that still relies on the wood. I like the anchor idea better. I may use that method in other spots too - like the door frame, where the holes are way oversized.

I cannot read the sticker, as some prior owner glued a veneer of plywood over it, and when I took it apart, the glue took off a lot of the numbers.

Is there a way to identify the null number or serial number any other source?

[McGillicuddy]

If it hadnt been cut out by prior transom replacement, Hull ID would have been right below the cap on the upper starboard corner of the outside of transom. Check with glass guy to see if he took any pics of the area. Title would also have Hull ID if you have that.