Introduction

[NickGarrott]

Thank you Frizzle. I don't really know how biaxial compares in strength to mat/woven for pull through resistance. I do have backer plates already.

[FLexpat]

Originally Posted by NickGarrott

Thank you Frizzle. I don't really know how biaxial compares in strength to mat/woven for pull through resistance. I do have backer plates already.

It is stronger - the biax fibers are all straight rather than random curves (mat) or kinked in the weave (woven).

[Bikecop1]

Great thread. Please keep posting pictures of your progress when you tie the stringers into the transom. Thanks.

[NickGarrott]

Bikecop I will hopefully tie them in today. I was attempting to make 12-1 scarf joints and then sister a piece to each side. Unfortunately that is beyond my limited carpentry skills and patience. The current stringers have a 3" step in them for running hoses. I am going to fill this step in with a piece of coosa, and then sister a piece next to it. Everything will be grinded clean ahead of time, tabbed in with 20 oz triaxial, then overlaid with a couple layers of 1700. The pictures are of the mock up only, I want the butt joint to be 20x as long as the stringer is thick, so that sister piece to the side should extend at least 8 inches past the joint.

[NickGarrott]

I was unable to get my transom inner skin to lay gently over the top of the transom. My plan is to grind back the top and of the outer and inner skins, give myself a nice radius on both sides, and lay strips of 1700 over it. I am not planning on grinding enough back that it will be seamless. It's a 25 year old chawk and I value strength over looks. If this or the stringers in the above post look to be a mistake please speak up.

[NickGarrott]

I got the first stringer glassed in today. Tabbed it with a layer of 12" triaxial, then 6" biaxial. Covered the whole thing with a single layer of 1700. I struggled with air bubbles today for some reason. I'm not sure if it was the high humidity, overconfidence, or if I just didn't prep enough.

[NickGarrott]

All stringers are in, I added splashwell walls and glassed them to the transom and main stringers, effectively making them huge transom knees also. Floor is mocked up. The only problem I am running into is the floor has to span a large distance without support. About 35". I was debating between doubling the coosa in that section to stiffen it, or adding a mini bulkhead. The bulkhead would be a 6" tall piece of 3/4 coosa tabbed into both main stringers. The bulkhead would hurt my bilge access so i am hoping to avoid that.

[FLexpat]

Put some 28x4 pieces of Coosa (ribs) with the edges beveled at 25-30 degrees (yeah - the shallow angle that is hard to cut with a circle saw) on the bottom of the 36 inch coosa panel after you put 2 layers of 1700 on it then put 2-3 more layers of 1700 over the ribs. make sure all the layers of 1700 go completely to the edge and tie together. It is a good idea to put a layer of glass wrapped around the edges of the 36 inch panel first or to wrap the top layers around so you don't end up with the edges in shear with no structure.

[NickGarrott]

Thank you Pat.