23 CC rebuild - shine

[uncleboo]

Looking good! I was reading over prior posts and have to agree with the question about the "flat butt". I know it wouldn't be practical as far as shedding water, but for aesthetics, I was thinking you could glass in a piece behind the fishbox hatches on the cap to match the arc of the factory boats just to give it the same appearance. Kinda like a spoiler. From any given angle, at a glance, it would have the curve most people have grown accustomed to seeing without having to rework the rest of the stern. Just a thought. Keep up the good work!

[shine]

rest of the stringer tops have been reinforced, capped with 3/16" of extra glass. Have ordered two 55 gallon belly tanks, these will fit low enough that I will be able to run some extra chases over the tanks and down the center. Tanks are going to be epoxy coated, bolted to stringers, foamed in, then glassed over.

Have decided against a livewell/leaning post combo in favor of just the leaning post, not enough cockpit room. Will probably build an extra 30-40 gallon well under the sole, to go along with 30 gallon in transom. Will probably rarely use the extra big well in deck, but its easy to build and will be nice to have as extra capacity.

Added tabbing of two layer 1708 added all around the transom.



Center stringer/drain put in. This is light 4" drain field PVC, covered with 3 layers 1708.

fillet putty:


glassed in:


Began working on molds for hatches and hatch lips/frames. Below is the rough cutout of the mold for a 20" square hatch. The hatch flange will fit flush into the top of the deck/sole, glued into a 3/16" recess that will be cut into the deck surface. There is enough room for the hatch to fit into the lip along with a 1/4" gasket. Should be pretty close to waterproof. Mold is CNC cut out of MDF, still have to round off the corners and add some fillets on the inside turns. Will cover with high-build primer, sand, then make parts. Will make a couple others for the rest of the boat. Large 20" square will be for bilge, in deck live well, and front fish box. A rectangle (maybe 13"x25") for front seats, console, and rear transom bulkhead. Also a triangle hatch for the anchor.

2 layers MDF glued up




rough cut of hatch lip mold

[shine]

good day for picture uploading, 40 degrees in south FL :?

progress on the hatch mold. Did not leave enough room to allow for router collete to fit :? so I had to manually round over the edges with profile sander. Was actually very easy and only took a few minutes. Sealed the MDF up with a coat of epoxy, then added fillets on the inside turns. Next will be high build primer







Tanks arrived. Two 55 gallon belly tanks. These will sit between the stringers. Positioned with at least 1.5" clearance all around to give space for foam. Epoxied mounting blocks to side of stringers. With tanks located, we made frames and glassed them in. Tanks get two heavy coats of coal tar epoxy







two of the three frames.





tanks are sanded with 80 grit immediately before the epoxy coating. Aluminum oxidizes so fast that you have maybe 20 minutes to get the epoxy on and have a good bond.






Chase tubes:

With the additional glass covering the stringers I no longer have the room to fit in a 2.5" tube in the stringer notches. It was close, but could not get the sweep position where I want using regular PVC. Decided to try 2" flexible electrical conduit for the side chases. Fits very nice. I will have a couple other chases down the center along with these two 2" down the side.

[thehermit]

Shine,

please inspect the tanks for alumn shavings. Also pull the pickup tube to inspect it is the right length and not too long and crammed against the bottom. Believe me on this...I recognize those manufact labels and although well built....you may want to do your own inspection before sending them home. Just my $.02....Boat looks great!

[shine]

thanks for the tip. Pulled the feeds and the sender, all looks good.

[heynow2203]

Nice project How much was added to the stringer height? Like others have said...I never have a wet floor. My 23 was converted from twin I/O to an outboard bracket. Its the "large console" model. Bats were moved to console. New tank is 80gals. I dont have "as built" measurements but below is my sketch plan. I love the boat and the way it came out. Good luck with yours!


and my boat

DO YOU HAVE ONE OF THESE DRAWINGS FOR THE INBOARD 23 CC

[McGillicuddy]

Here you go... they are in the "Specifications" section on the Home page
http://www.classicseacraft.com/SF23inboard.htm

[thegoggleeye]

great looking project shine, stringers and transom tab looks bulletproof. the twin tank idea was a great choice for dealing with c/g issues. i agree with strick as far as crowning the transom cap. (his boats all look great in the rear) as far as a transom livewell, looks cool, i was going to do one on my 20, but if available the floor is a better place for the baitwell. i consulted a profesional tournament fisherman i trust (my brother) and he said below deck with a lower c/g the bait sloshes around less and lives longer. just some consideration before all the work is dry. good luck on the project all looks great so far.

[seacraftks]

Very nice boat the bracket looks great

[shine]

some work before new years.....

tanks foamed in....







Was able to fit a 2" PVC pipe chase in addition to the 2" flex. total of 4 2" chases, will add another from console to bow, and a third from fuel compartment to bilge





gluing cleat to the side of hull (sole will rest on theses). Cleat are two layers of 3/4". First layer is epoxied to hull with the assistance of hot glue gun, next layer is held by screws until epoxy cures, will then remove screws and completely coat cleats with epoxy resin. First step is to located the sole level on the sides, use a straight edge balanced across stringers to make marks every foot, then connect marks to make line. Cleats are glued about 1/4" under the line so as to give plenty of room for epoxy putty when we bed down the sole.















some progress on the deck hatch. Mold is well waxed and also coated with PVA. Overkill, but the mold surface is not perfect, so I wanted to be sure.



Started with some scraps of light weight cloth, its all I could get to take the bend. Let the cloth partially cure before adding strips of biax tape.





After cleats are cured and coated, we will fill sides spaces with foam (except path for fuel fill/vents). Then glass over tanks. We are also adding some extensions to tips of the stringers. the original boat had a molded liner up in the bow that stiffened up the hull, so we need to replace that stiffness with a couple longitudinal and a floor frame (or two). that forward space is going to be ice/fish box, storage, and maybe a fresh water tank.

Happy new year