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#31
01-05-2012, 07:43 PM
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well its that time of year again for another project. last week I got some motivation and started to work on the boat again. I'm going to replace the deck and re-core the cap this time around and spray the whole inside and cap with gel coat. I'm keeping the deck looking like factory minus the stripes and re-coring the hatches. so just out of curiosity when you guys replace your decks do you wrap all the edges of the plywood with glass before setting it down or do you seal them with epoxy or just leave them be? any info would be greatly appreciated, thanks Brian
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#32
01-06-2012, 09:23 AM
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Brian, I can't answer your questions but please document your work well as I to am going to have to undertake the same project in a year or two and I am scared just thinking about it.
__________________
1976 23' SeaCraft Inboard
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#33
01-08-2012, 04:54 PM
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I puddied up my decks edges with cabosil and then stuck em down. Some guys just use Resin and hot coat them, along with the bottom of the deck too.
__________________
Patrick from WAY out on cape cod. 1973 23foot Center console, Birdsall Ttop, Hermco Bracket... in progress
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#34
01-09-2012, 01:42 AM
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Quote:
penske board - do it once,never do it again - no problems with rotting ... gel coat - that's alot of work - prep,spraying,wet sanding and buffing...spray it with awlgrip - save yourself the amount of work...
__________________
do not let common sense get in your way
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#35
01-09-2012, 10:29 AM
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let me add this:
working with plywood: it's real important to seal the wood from any water migration - epoxy is the clear choice for this...and yes,you want to completley seal the edges of any and all plywood - it wicks moisture via the end grain...epoxy is a better choice for working with wood,due to the fact it's water proof - polyester resins are pourous,not the best choice for working with wood. the underside of the wood - you need to seal this as well... spraying with gel coat: gel coat requires a few steps - surface prep,spraying - 2 types of gel coat - "laminating gel" - this will not fully kick,unless sealed from the atmosphere with PVA.and there's "air dry gel" this has a wax in it that rises as the gel kicks - no need for PVA - the gel needs to be sprayed on to the needed thickness - gel shrinks...after the spraying,wet sanding and compounding is required... in the case of decks - the gel is rolled out... depending on what you want - a nice clean job,or a "utilitarian" job - that meaning,you're not really concerned with beauty - gel coat may or may not be your best choice... finish coating with awlgrip is gonna give you a nice clean finish,that lasts,awlgrip on the deck is clean and easy to keep that way.refinishing with paint,you need the prep,a good 2 part primer and then spray it - job over... rolling out the non skid areas... seriously - check out composites,before you start this job - composites are pretty easy to work with,light weight and strong as well...cost is less than you think - 1/2" penske board 4'x8',costs around $150...
__________________
do not let common sense get in your way
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#36
01-11-2012, 08:42 AM
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1/2in Penske is way more than $150 around here.
Brian just get Bobby to shoot it, you can use my 'new' shop if you want. You could even get all the prep work at your house. I wont need it for all the winter, and my boat wont fit in his shop anymore.
__________________
Patrick from WAY out on cape cod. 1973 23foot Center console, Birdsall Ttop, Hermco Bracket... in progress
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#37
01-21-2012, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
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#38
03-27-2012, 08:22 PM
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update
well guys Ive been hard at work over the last couple of months, Ive managed to get the new deck in,2 of the hatches re-cored and the whole cap re-cored and while i was doing everything else i decided to pull the engine and repaint in the bilge as well. cant have a nice boat with a dirty bilge ya know.I first had made a template of the deck out of cheap wood and glued it all together. I then did all the demo work and grinding and fit the new plywood into place. once i had the new deck all cut to shape i started to glass the underside of the plywood with chop strand.then i removed the in floor scuppers (pain in the butt that was) i had to cut out the back part of the liner to be able to remove the 12'' x 3.5 '' solid soaking wet block that the scupper went through. i also had added a 3'' PVC pipe for the chase wires with 45deg elbows at each end. After i glued and screwed the new deck into place i did 2 layers of 1808 mat and tabbed all the edges with 2 layers of 1808 as well.then came all the fun of sanding all of the body work that needed to be done. After i got all the body work done on the deck i started on the cap, i removed all of the old core and replaced it with 3/4'' and 1/2'' plywood with 2 layers of chop under the wood (sandwiched) and a layer of 1808 on top of it to keep it covered. Once i got done with that i flipped it over and started to grind and glass all the existing holes from rod holder and whatever else was on there.I also had molded in the old rear live well for storage.
              
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#39
03-27-2012, 08:27 PM
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more pics
      
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#40
01-24-2013, 10:53 PM
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transom with tuna door
well i have finally decided to do my transom and put a tuna door in and good thing i did because it was all soaking wet and rotten.i used 2 sheets of 3/4'' plywood and in the first layer i used cabosil to sandwich it to the outer skin and clamped it from both sides to squeeze it all tight.after that had dried i used chop strand to sandwich in between the two layers of plywood and then used stainless deck screws to hold it all together. once all that was cured i put a layer of 1708 on the inside and tabbed both corners with 2 more layers of 1708. after all that was cured i could figure out how big of a door i could fit without inter fearing with my steering and my trim tabs.i was able to fit a 28''x25'' door, pretty happy with that, once i cut the door out i was able to make the side braces and the ramp/floor extension to box everything into place and glassed them in using 1708. after i got some body work done i rolled three coats of gel coat on. next will be to finish the body work on the cap and get it glassed back in. all in all its solid and not going anywhere.
              
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