23 CC rebuild - shine

[shine]

Close to putting the new sole down tanks are glassed in. made an ice box in the bow. All the buoyancy foam is in, I filled along the outside of the stringers, there really was not any room for anything else, plus there was not a good way to drain the empty space.

I have decided to make a leaning post/live well and forgo the big transom live well - will use the transom space for a fish box. Moving that weight forward did wonders for my weights ! With the way I have it now, the boat should sit on the same trim angle as a stock 23 with motor hanging directly on transom. Hopefully (if I have saved some weight) it will sit a that same angel, but 1/2" to 1" higher.

I bought a used console of CL that was very near to what I would have built - saved me some time.



because I dont have a liner bonded to the hull, I needed to extend the longitudinal stiffeners. Made some stringer extensions. 2" foam covered with 4 layers 1708 (foam is just there for a shape, non-structural)



foaming in chases - was able to get two 2" into each side


glassing in tanks



then they are coated in the coal tar to seal it all up - should drain off very easy





ice storage box located just forward of box stringers, sits on the stringer extensions I made, also there is a full transverse frame/bulkhead from the tip of the stringer extensions. The space all under the ice box is filled with foam. It not a huge space but it should hold 10 bags of ice to be used in the transom fish box as needed.



Will be looking for rigging ideas at Miami boat show.

[Blue_Heron]

We are also adding some extensions to tips of the stringers. the original boat had a molded liner up in the bow that stiffened up the hull, so we need to replace that stiffness with a couple longitudinal and a floor frame (or two).

Joel,
Nice work and good progress. I think you're right that the fish box in the liner had a structural role. I think your new ice chest will save you some stress cracks in the hull.

You mentioned that you think the boat will ride higher and sit at about the same trim as the original configuration. Are you able to calculate center of buoyancy and center of gravity so you have a good idea how she'll trim out?

Dave

[shine]

Hi Dave,

No, I did not do all the work to do hydrostatics. Did not feel it was necessary.

I just made a little spreadsheet with weight locations and found moments, then compared to identical spreadsheet with data from a stock 23'

[shine]

Progress has been slow lately. We are epoxy gluing down the sole today, so Im getting closer.

A couple weeks ago I picked up a console/t-top and leaning post/livewell. It came off a 23 seacraft from Tampa. They are in great shape, will need new upholstery on the leaning post, but that about it. I had planned to build the console and hard top, but with spring here I will not have the time (work), so finding these items ready to install is going to make finishing a lot easier. I will paint the leaning post and console after they are glassed to the hull. Maybe someday I will have the aluminum powder coated - but thats for later.











So after the sole in down and glassed, I will be glassing in hull side stiffeners and making frames. stiffeners are from compsys http://boatbuildercentral.com/prodde...reform_TR_6008 web page



The other console is for sale. I will post it in the for sale section, will donate part of proceeds to classicseacraft.com

[shine]

progress comes in small fits.

The hull stiffeners are in as are the frames. I made hollow glass box frames, used a mold to make a shape out of light cloth, conformed to hull, then covered in 2 x 1708, then filled with foam.







Made scupper drains. Used a form to make glass tubes which are epoxied and glassed in. Scuppers will have flappers on the outside, and I will be able to plug the drain form the inside if need be. My sole is +2" from standard, so i should be pretty good.







Ordered a bracket which should be here in a week or so.

[shine]

been a long time since I have updated the thread. I will just copy my thread from other forum..

closing in the transom, box in middle is fish box. Tabbed in with double layers of biax tape, the covered with some 6 oz. cloth.





closing in fish box. bottom of box is made from a 3/4" nida-core panel with 4mm Okoume on each side (scrap from my console/box on my fs17 skiff), the sides are then lined with a layer of 1/2" H80 Divinycell glued in, all filleted and covered with a 12 oz bix (bottom is double layered).





experimenting more with hatches, have two of these ready to go in. ...



Secured down the 3" angle for the console and leaning post. In each case, I drilled holes (double the diameter of the faster being used) through the sole and through the stringer, then using an Allen wrench attached to the drill to auger out a large void into the foam. Void was about 3" to 4" diameter and a little deeper than the bolt will sit. For the console the mounting of the plate was pretty straight forward, just had to cut a little off one of the angles so it would fit around the chase tubes. The angles for the leaning post took a little creativity. There is not enough room on the insode of the live well to have the flange of the angle - it would not leave any room to run drain/fill hose, also the inside of the well is not side enough to reach the stringers, so I reversed the angle and routed out the sole so I could bolt them right to the stringers. I will fill this void with glass so that only to top of the angle is sticking out above the sole - the sides of the livewell slide right over it

port side angle, the black under the sole is the top of the fuel tanks.

starbord side, you can see the recess better

dry fit before, you can see how the livewell sits on top of angle


console mounts. The console will also be glassed to sole inside and out.

[3rdday]

Truly First Class, Joel!!

[shine]

thanks Brian ......

more fairing....... hatches are all glued/glassed down now. A little more fairing on the inside sides and we will glass down the leaning post and console.

[image]http://gallery.bateau2.com/albums/userpics/12155/normal_seacraft23_shine_442.jpg[/image]

forward hatch. When the gasket is glued on it will sit flush with deck/sole

[image]http://gallery.bateau2.com/albums/userpics/12155/normal_seacraft23_shine_442.jpg[/image]
[image]http://gallery.bateau2.com/albums/userpics/12155/normal_seacraft23_shine_441.jpg[/image]

last of the hatch covers. I pop them out after the laminating in the top skin, then core/glass the rest. I built the first one entirely in the mold and it was a bit of pain to remove.

[image]http://gallery.bateau2.com/albums/userpics/12155/seacraft23_shine_451.jpg[/image]

this little hatch fits really tight between the bilge hatch and the leaning post. in fact the flange will partially be cored ny the rear of the leaning post/live well - you can see the sharpie marker on the hatch outlining where the leaning post will fall. These two rear hatches will not be used very much. I think I will use a latch on both sides so the hatch can be removed completely for better access. somethign like these, with the gasket should be pretty close to water tight.

[image]http://www.gemlux.com/core/media/media.nl/id.211/c.1019389/.f?h=a1731d30d29eab6c8561[/image]

[image]http://gallery.bateau2.com/albums/userpics/12155/seacraft23_shine_453.jpg[/image]

[george90]

hey very nice build so far i was wondering what did you do your middle stinger out of. i need to replace mine and i like how you did yours is that safe the do it like that it look like pvc?

[shine]

Hi George,

I made calculations for hull stiffness, based on frame/stringer spacing and hull thickness. According to those calculations (with my stiffener location which is not the same as stock SC), the center stringer was not required.

I made the PVC pipe center stringer to provide a little stiffness, plus its a drainage to the bilge for the rest of the compartments. Its made from a 4" piece of drain field PVC (light weight), its then covered in two layers of 1708. My project hull did not have a liner.

I added frames to my boat, between the stringers, which adds a lot of stiffness. If I had replaced the original liner, I would not have been able to fit in the frames. In that case I would have definitely replaced the center stringer as original. Hope that helps

BTW, something is wrong with my image tags in the above post, i tried several different ways to do it, but no luck. Im a little new to this thread posting thing, so maybe I will figure it out