Update - Page 5

Rufneck · #41 10-29-2014, 06:20 PM

Radar arch is installed and I'm happy with how it turned out. I think I managed to get all the stuff mounted onto it that I would ever need - 9 rod holders!!, forward facing spot light, aft facing flood lights, outriggers, anchor light and locations for the VHF and GPS antennas.

Next project is the rub rail and modifictions to the dash so I can install the electronics package that I want.

77SceptreOB · #42 10-29-2014, 10:14 PM

Well done! Stainless or Alum?

flyingfrizzle · #43 10-30-2014, 06:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 77SceptreOB

Well done! Stainless or Alum?

Looks like Aluminum, Dose look good. Like the rolled sweep on the legs. I see more and more designs like this. Gives it that moving while steel effect.

Rufneck · #44 11-05-2014, 10:03 AM

The radar arch is aluminum.

I am planning on painting the bilge where the fuel tank sits and where all of the pumps and transducers are located. I don't see too many on here painting bilges or if they are, they are painting them the same color as the fiberglass. Is there any downside to painting it? I am doing so because I want a clean look and I want any debris to be easily visible.

I am also about to have a moisture gauge put on the stringers to determine whether the stringers are dry or not. Any speculation? Is it a case where all stringers in 40 year old boats will have moisture or is there a good chance they will be dry? I see no signs of water.

77SceptreOB · #45 11-05-2014, 10:37 AM

The foam inside the stringers maybe wet but the stringers themselves are made of solid fiberglass and will not be wet. Some people have cut the top off the stringers and removed the wet foam and replaced with 2-4 pound per cubic foot polyurethane foam. The generally do that operation when they are replacing or raising the entire floor in the board. That is quite a project.

Rufneck · #46 01-19-2015, 10:01 AM

My progress has slowed recently as I work on the bilge plumbing and wiring. Just having all the fittings and hardware required is a challenge given that I am really only able to work on the boat during the weekends. Here is the state of my bilge as of today. I still need to better secure the wires somehow. I called a time out on myself from drilling the hole for the strainer. I was going to drill the hole and then just apply liberal amounts of 5200 but I think a more technical solution is appropriate.

shine · #47 01-20-2015, 10:41 AM

I really like your project, I think a scepter might be my next boat.

If I do one, I will paint the window frames as you did and source some new glass.

Quote:

I don't see too many on here painting bilges or if they are, they are painting them the same color as the fiberglass. Is there any downside to painting it? I am doing so because I want a clean look and I want any debris to be easily visible.

lots of nasty things end up in the bilge, things that are mean to most paints

most topside paints will not hold up in there. I prefer to use pigmented epoxy, its fuel resistant (you can make gas tanks with it) and it cleans up very easy. It also bonds VERY well.

Bertram87 · #48 01-24-2015, 11:01 AM

Nice work. I've got an 87 Sceptre that needs to be reworked, so I am interested in how yours is proceeding.

bgreene · #49 02-04-2015, 08:32 PM

By the way......
Steel wool soap pads remove water spots and such from windshield - and don't scratch !

Previous old Mako, nothing would remove the stains until I tried the simple wet steel wool soap pads. End result crystal clear, no scratches or spots.

77SceptreOB · #50 02-04-2015, 10:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bgreene

By the way......
Steel wool soap pads remove water spots and such from windshield - and don't scratch !

Previous old Mako, nothing would remove the stains until I tried the simple wet steel wool soap pads. End result crystal clear, no scratches or spots.

Thanks! good idea.

Jim