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#1
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I am ready for the fiberglass work. There is nothing left other than the hull and the windshield. My new bracket should be delivered later this month.
![]() ![]() I still have a couple of challenges with this boat that I am struggling with. 1. I can't get the spots off the windshield regardless of what I use. Also, the frame around the windshield is not in the best of shape but I am more concerned about how to restore the glass windshield. 2. There is just very little room to flush mount electronics on these boats. I want the ability to install an 8-10" screen for a GPS/plotter and the same size for a sonar/fish finder. I am actually thinking about modifying the glove box on the port side dash and installing the sonar there. I am considering having it modified so that it is angled towards the helm. We'll see. I have thought of a few options. None of them really appeal to me too much. |
#2
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Consult your local glass dealer for some tips on polishing glass. Might be able to compound them out. Good luck!
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1975 SF18/ 2002 DF140 1972 15' MonArk/ 1972 Merc 50 http://i833.photobucket.com/albums/z...photos/SC3.jpg |
#3
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I had a glass shower enclosure that was badly etched and was told the only option was a very expensive full replacement. A shower door ain't nothing compared to restoring a Seacraft, so I got out my mega-buffer and some 3M Finesse-It. An hour and some very tired arms later, the glass looked like new. It really becomes a question, like happens so often when working on a Seacraft, of how much trouble you want to go to to save some money.
This picture may give you some ideas for your electronics. Modifying or moving the glove box is not that big a job, but you have to remove the windshield and frame, which you may end up doing anyway to fix the glass. ![]()
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1974 23' Tsunami, fully refurbished, custom pilothouse, Hermco Bracket, 250 Etec 1977 23' Sceptre fully refurbished, soft top, I/O |
#4
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Refurbishment is coming along nicely. We decided to completely re-do the transom before installing the bracket. It was a necessity, actually. The wood in the transom was rotten so we went with this composite. This was the right thing to do as it will ensure that the boat will have a sound transom for the rest of the boat’s life.
![]() ![]() ![]() I am going to remove these small platforms that the batteries sat on. I will relocate the batteries up forward so they are not necessary. ![]() |
#5
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I want to start purchasing all of the stainless hardware I will need when I start putting it all back together? Where would be the best place to purchase this? I will need numerous hinges and cleats and all the other stuff that is needed for this refurbishment.
Should I just purchase from West Marine or Jamestown Distributors or is there a better supplier for high quality stainless? |
#6
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I don't know about moving batteries foward. I have found that my Tsunami does not like any additional weight foward. The more you can keep at the back the better in my oppinion. For reference, mine is equiped with a 12" non-flotation metal bracket with a 30" 250 Suzuki 4 stroke and the batteries in the transom.
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[b]The Moose is Loose ! |
#7
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Work is coming along nicely. Here are some progress pics. I really like the arched transom and how we were able to maintain the arch. I am not sure I will be able to fit the rub rail over the arch but we will surely try.
![]() Because these Sceptres had that tub in front of the motor, the stringers in the middle of the boat did not go all the way back and connect to the transom. We went ahead and extended the stringers to tie it into the transom. This will give a lot of needed strength since we will be bolting a bracket to the transom. ![]() We also extended the deck that fuel tank sits on so I will have the option to go back with a larger tank should I choose. I am not sure if I need more than 100 gallons, but I guess it is better to have it and not need it than..... ![]() ![]() There was a soft spot under the floor on the port side where the seat was screwed into the deck. This repair caused us to re-gelcoat the entire floor. ![]() |
#8
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Getting some good progress there!!
I would not move the batteries forward. I have done it on mine due to minimal locations to do so. My boat rides bow heavy, and among some other issues I need to sort out. My 87 rides the best with a 150qt cooler full of ice on top of the splash well with water in splash well. Otherwise I'm tabbing and trimming to make it handle right. My two cents, find a way to make a hatch below deck back aft while everything is open. I think with the bracket back there it exaggerate the weight distributed forward. I want to do this on my boat but I have a 94 gallon fuel tank that runs across the entire deck along the center line to the baitwell that prevents this.
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1974 Seacraft 20' SF with 1985 Evinrude 150 VRO 1987 Seacraft 23' Scepter with 2007 250 HP Evinrude Etec |
#9
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Will you be putting a livewell or fishbox in the transom? Always liked that setup and would love to convert mine to a bracket and full transom. Keep up the good work.
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#10
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Lookin' good! What bracket did you choose? Have you decided on your power yet?
Jim
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1977 SeaCraft 23' Sceptre W/ Alum Tower & Yamaha 225 www.LouveredProductsUnlimited.com |
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