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  #1  
Old 03-17-2003, 08:19 PM
firemedic1070 firemedic1070 is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: florida
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Default 1970 20 foot I/O advice

Hello Everyone,
I'm interested in a 1970 20' I/O SeaCraft. The motor and drive were replaced 2 years ago and have only 15 hours since then. The transom is solid as far as hitting it with a fist can tell. The motor box area of the bilge has some new glass laid in there. The owner says this is due to some cutting of the shroud when the motor was replaced. The floor seems solid around the console by the pull on the t top test. The floor was a little squishey immediately on either side of the dry box hatch in the front but I don't know what is normal. No real electronics to speak of. The electronics box has some corrosion. This boat comes with a 2 axle galvanized trailer. I am some what handy mechanically but not interested in reglassing a rotton boat. I'll really appreciate any insight and opinions on the boat. Thanks
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  #2  
Old 03-17-2003, 08:58 PM
jw jw is offline
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Location: Annapolis, MD--Ocean City,MD
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Default Re: 1970 20 foot I/O advice

Fire,
I have a 1975 sc cc i/o, I too thought the transom was solid, You can check where the hoses rout the water from the upper part of the bilgr, under the rear seats to port stern, if the foan is wet so is the transom. Seacraft did not tab the transom to the hull inside the stringers, so Mr. Moisture gets in the transom. You can also drill some 1/4 inch holes on the inside , if the sawdust id wet so is the transom.
Someone in this forum stated that if the boat was built in the 70's the transom needs to be replaced.
Just my three cents worth, with inflation.
JW
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  #3  
Old 03-17-2003, 08:59 PM
jw jw is offline
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Annapolis, MD--Ocean City,MD
Posts: 125
Default Re: 1970 20 foot I/O advice

Fire,
I have a 1975 sc cc i/o, I too thought the transom was solid, You can check where the hoses route the water from the upper part of the bilge, under the rear seats to port stern, if the foam is wet, so is the transom. Seacraft did not tab the transom to the hull inside the stringers, so Mr. Moisture gets in the transom. You can also drill some 1/4 inch holes on the inside, if the sawdust is wet, so is the transom.
Someone in this forum stated that if the boat was built in the 70's the transom needs to be replaced.
Just my three cents worth, with inflation.
JW
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  #4  
Old 03-17-2003, 09:00 PM
jw jw is offline
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Default Re: 1970 20 foot I/O advice

Corrected my horrible typing.JW
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  #5  
Old 03-17-2003, 09:51 PM
firemedic1070 firemedic1070 is offline
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Default Re: 1970 20 foot I/O advice

Thaks JW
If the transom is wet does that always equal transom replacement?
Thanks
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  #6  
Old 03-18-2003, 09:10 AM
jw jw is offline
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Location: Annapolis, MD--Ocean City,MD
Posts: 125
Default Re: 1970 20 foot I/O advice

Yes,
It will never dry out. It would probably be usable, however if you were to upgrade power down the road, say a 4.3Mercruiser over the 3.0, you could have a major malfunction.
Good luck. If you are handy, it is not that bi=g a deal to replace the transom, check the older threads in the forum. I did mine from the inside, Lets just say it takes a large pair of cajonies to cut up your perfectly fine boat.
I will email some pics of my project.
JW
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