#1
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1975 - 23' Tsunami --- Cork decks ?
Are the decks in the floor of a 23' Tsunami cork ? And, if so, what they get soft, is it from delamination only or does the cork actually rot too ?
I have a few small areas, no more than a few 4-" areas, where the floor makes a creaking noise, like the deck/glass is slightly delam'd, but the core seems solid enough. Something to be concerned about? or chaulk it up to a 28 year old boat... Thx, Alan |
#2
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Re: 1975 - 23' Tsunami --- Cork decks ?
THE DECK IS END CUT CORK THE WILL ROT OUT TO NOTHING I HAD TO RE DO MY ENTIRE DECK. I PUT LAMINATED PLYWOOD IN IT’S PLACE. IF YOU BUY WEST SYSTEMS BOOKLETS OR POSSIBLY ON THEIR WEB SITE YOU CAN READ ABOUT DIFFERENT WAYS TO FIX THIS PROBLEM. IT ALL DEPENDS ON HOW BAD IT IS.
FELLOW-SHIP [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img] |
#3
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Re: 1975 - 23' Tsunami --- Cork decks ?
If it feels firm under foot and just lose to the stringers, the bond between the two may be bad, not necessarily a rotted core... A little birdy on the Cape told me this was common [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img] ... Just something to consider.
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Surf and Boat fishing for Striped Bass http://striped-bass.com/images/sb_small180b.gif |
#4
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Re: 1975 - 23' Tsunami --- Cork decks ?
WHEN I WROTE MY RESPONSE I SAID END CUT CORK I’M SORRY MEANT TO SAY END GRAIN BALSA. I THINK ALL THE OLD ONE ARE END GRAIN BALSA I AM NOT SURE WHEN THAT STARTED USING THE NEW COMPOSET MATERIALS.
FELLOWSHIP. [img]images/icons/rolleyes.gif[/img] |
#5
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Re: 1975 - 23' Tsunami --- Cork decks ?
Hmm. I was hoping it was cork ( even though I've never heard of a cork floor ). Cork seems water proof enough.
End grain balsa rivals a sponge when it is exposed to good 'ole H2O. And it rots like... enough analogies, you get the idea. Too bad. Balsa is great as a sandwich material ( light and strong ) as long as it doesn't get wet; then one block will leach wet onto the next and the next - and 'oila - mush. I think my deck is pretty solid though. There are a few spots I will keep my eye on and then I would go the WEST SYSTEM route ( drill holes, excavate, dry and fill w/ epoxy ). First things first; find and fix ANY place where water might get in. One thing that's annoying w/ many boat builders is the shortsightedness ( is that a word ? ) when assembling cored areas; i.e. something as simple as a fuel tank hatch - you know if 'they' just used solid fiberglass on the undersides of the hatch-cover where the screws screw through, instead of using plywood or balsa in these areas, these areas would never need to be re-done. I moan because I have to do this job ! I also have a perfectly good hatch that covers my forward storage area. I've already removed it and am going to hole-saw, w/out the arbor/bit, all the screw-holes in the sanwiched plywood core - w/ a 1" saw. Remove the 1" of ply and fill the hole w/ epoxy. A little preventive maintenance never hurt anyone... By the way - You guys know anyone who has actually done the 'ole (2) i/o's to (1) i/o conversion themselves ? It would be great if you did, I have a ton of questions. If not, wait a few months and you'll know someone then... Thx, Alan |
#6
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Re: 1975 - 23' Tsunami --- Cork decks ?
I know someone who converted an I/O to a straight inboard. Converting an I/O to a bracketed O/B is a more popular route.I don't think going from 2 I/O's to 1 will be a major problem.
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#7
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Re: 1975 - 23' Tsunami --- Cork decks ?
When did they start using cork? My 73 has end grain balsa.
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