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[Endeavour]

I put a bid on a 77 sceptre 23 today. will find out tomorrow if accepted.
A couple of questions for those experienced with this model:
does the forward control/seating on these boats (more fwd than in the 20cc) affect the ride at all?
am i nuts to think that with a re-power i can run this boat 3-40 miles off in decent conditions?
she seems to have lots of pop out hatches, 2 aft of splash well on the removable plate, 2 on the screwed down aft tank cover (where sending unit is). why would they have done this i can't figure. I know they put a new tank in 5 yrs ago but still does not make sense. all the new hatches have caused the fwd aft plat to flex. I plan to restore this boat fully but I need a quick fix for the soft deck plate with 2 hatches in it so i can run her this summer. can i glass in 2 longitudinal stringers to the backside of the plate or should i go lateral? the plate is appx 4' long and 1' deep. or should i just grind it and layup some new glass over the hatch holes?

[abl1111]

I am new to Seacraft too. I am currently re-doing a '75 Sceptre ( 23') like yours except mine is an i/o.

There are some guys here who can help you w/ the ride aspect of it.

With regard to the flexi-hatch: I would not do a half ass repair - the consequences of the make-shift repair not working well and damaging the very valuable gelcoat/skin of the hatch is too great. The repair is not too bad if the non-skid skin is in good condition. It becomes a pain when the skin is compromised or damaged.

There are many threads on how to repair the hatch.

Basically, remove the hatch. Place on a flat table w/ the underside showing up. Use a grinder along the edges to remove the bottom glass. Then, carefully use a chisel to remove all the pcs of plywood squares - this is the pain in the ass part ! Grind smooth to the glass. Tape holes on gelcoat side so resin will not drip through.

Clean w/ acetone. Lay (2) pre-cut sheets of wetted-out mat on this smooth surface - roll out, and place a pc. of plywood ( I used 3/4" A/C plywood ) - measure your clearance under the floor to assure there is room for 3/4" - you may have room for only 1/2" ply.

You must make sure the table you are using is flat - or you will end up w/ a twisted hatch !

Note: I cut the plywood approx 1.5" short on all sides so the wood is NOT near the edges of the hatch. I also cut these edges on a 45 degree angle so when I lay glass on top - it will lay easier.

Lay plywood on top an either clamp w/ many large clamps or put a lot of cinder blocks or weight on the wood to firmly hold wood in place.

Let this set.

Next day -

Sand, to roughen, the 1.5" edges of the hatch where there is no wood. Clean entire area. Precut (2) plys of mat. Also, cut 3-4 pcs per side of 1.5" by the length of the side to-be-covered - to glass over the areas with no wood.

This 1.5" area will assure that no water will ever rot the hatch again.

Wet out the glass and lay it on the wood, covering the wood and extending to the edges of the hatch. Roll it out w/ a resin roller. Get all bubbles OUT. Lay in the pcs of 1.5" mat to fill in the " mote " area. Make it 3-4 pcs thick on each side.

Make sure all is laying flat and wet out good. Let is set.

When cured, re-drill holes for screws.

Oila... That is the right way to do it.

- Alan

[Dave Hirshberg]

Endeavour,
I think my 23 sceptre rode great, It was very dry. But, I dont see how it could ride as well as a center console. As far at those inspection hatches are concerned, my deck flexed there too. Getting to the bilge pump in that boat is almost impossible without them though. You'll just have to beef it up the best you can. I mounted an above deck bait tank over mine si I really did't have to walk on it, the tank took up the whole area. Theres some pics at this address. Also if your fuel tank is mounted back there like mine you won't have much clearance. Mine almost sat right on the fuel fittings.

[Dave Hirshberg]

http://www.theboatzone.com/gallery/album06/livewell
Copy and past to your address bar

[Endeavour]

thanks very much. NICE JOB, that rig is sweet.

I am surprised how solid this particular sceptre hull is. when i re-did my last '72sc 20cc i knew what i was getting into. the hull was solid but lots of little things showed up after a few months use (scuppers shot, fuel tank shot, lots of annoying little screw holes attachments etc). this sceptre really does not seem to have any issues. transom seems very solid, no delam at all. considering she was left in water all year i was pleasantly surprised. anything i should watch out for in particular with this style/year boat? the engine is mid 80's rebuilt in '97 so i dont expect to get much out of it, hopefully a summer. planning on putting on a kicker bracket and engine as insurance for this summer and then re-fit/re-power this winter. any recommendations/advice for re-power?

[Ed]

Endeavor-

If you plan on keeping this boat for a long time...do yourself a favor and use a waterproof type foam core (instead of marine plywood) when you recore the hatch. Divinicell, Nida-Core, Airex, etc. are some of the ones that members on this site have used for these type of projects.

Good luck.

Ed

[Endeavour]

I just ran thru some threads here and at a few other sites and scared the hell out of myself. The platic hatches all got to go. Now I'm more concerned with the ones aft of the splash well as they will definately be subjected to a constant deluge. fwd aft hatches will have to go as well as the scuppers apear to be close to water line (as in my 20).

re-thinking the approach plan, might have to put some time into her before getting wet. damn.